Building is always the best part of the project as far as I’m concerned. I don’t think I’m too different from most woodworkers in that regard. Luckily, I found a finishing method that works great for the majority of the projects I build and I stick with it. I seldom tackle projects being built outside my “normal” hardwoods list. But since joining the staff here at Popular Woodworking magazine, I’ve built a few Arts & Crafts projects that dip just outside that list.

When finishing time rolled around for the Stickley Mantle Clock from the December issue (#173), I did what most woodworkers do. I revisited a number of Arts & Crafts projects that ran in earlier issues of Popular Woodworking and thought about duplicating one of those processes. However, I sit across from Senior Editor, Robert W. Lang – a guy that’s deep into different finishes for quartersawn white oak.

Bob suggested I go with an original finish method and fume the clock. I should what? Wouldn’t I have to build a tent, be bothered to find the correct ammonia and wait a few days for the project to change? And the smell! We work on the first floor of an office building. I could see the head of Human Resources dropping by to hand me a pink slip due to everyone on the floors above me becoming sick.

Needless to say, I was a bit close-minded. But after the process was explained to me, I bowed to Bob’s knowledge and decided the task was worth it – the great color of my finished project, not my job if I sickened the folks on the two floors above our shop.

We had some ammonia on hand from an earlier project, which made it easy. This ammonia is not ordinary ammonia that you purchase from a food or hardware store. It’s a product used to make blueprints. Chances are you can purchase the ammonia from a local blueprint company, or if not, you can find a supplier online, but make sure to check the price and the shipping cost. This ammonia should run you about $10 per gallon.

There’s a lot of talk about using household ammonia for fuming, but I’ve been told that’s not the way to go.  While it may work (and that’s questionable), you’re going to use copious amounts of the stuff, possibly refill your container a number of times and wait an extraordinary period of time before gaining good color. Even then, the results are suspect. Stick with what works.

Here are the steps I followed for fuming the clock. “Pay attention, this is a tricky”, I say with a sarcastic tone in my voice.

You’ll need a large container. I opted for a clear plastic tote, but you can build a tent from sticks and visqueen if you prefer or if you decide to use this technique on other, larger projects. Seal any openings before moving on. This process is called fuming due to the ammonia fumes reacting with the tannin in the oak. Any introduction of outside air could weaken the solution and retard the fuming.

To begin, position your clock off the bottom of the tote with a couple sticks, then slide the door and back into the tote as well. It’s OK to lean the extra pieces against the clock, but make as little contact as possible so you don’t affect the reaction. Next, pour some ammonia into a plastic dish. We used about a 1/4” of ammonia in a 4-1/2” diameter dish. (Not really a great amount of ammonia, huh?) Place the dish inside your container, clamp the lid in place and let it cook.

On a serious note: This ammonia is dangerous to your eyes and lungs. Be careful and wear protective gear such as eyeglasses or goggles, some type of gloves to protect your hands and an appropriate mask. I can speak from experience. Not being the sharpest chisel in the cabinet, I wanted to experience this awful smell first hand. I did and it damn near knocked me to my knees. I do not wish to experience this again! I suggest you not experience it either.

As I watched the tote most of the afternoon, I noticed that the door and back were gaining a dark color quickly while the main clock was slower to react. It seems that within a species, different woods react differently when fuming. That’s exactly what happens when using other finish methods and it’s why you should try to use wood from the same tree – known as matched sets – when building projects.

Bob suggested that I pull the door and back from the tote and allow the clock to fume overnight. Careful does it when removing the lid from an active fuming process. Again, the fumes can be overpowering. A friend’s help is important so you can pull the pieces but continue to keep fumes enclosed.

The next morning was like opening a present. I carefully pulled the lid off the tote and allowed any residual fumes to escape into the air. My ammonia solution was all but water at that point. Once it was safe, I reached into the tote and removed the clock. Interestingly, all the pieces, those pulled the day before and those revealed that day, were very close in shade.

I allowed the project to sit for a couple hours until the ammonia smell diluted, then lightly sanded the project with #400- grit sandpaper and a gray abrasive pad. I had an area along one edge that was lighter in color – I had seen the difference earlier as I built the clock, but failed to remember to orient the piece toward the rear of the clock as I cut the groove for the back.

After I ragged-on a single coat of amber shellac and lightly sanded the project, I used a medium fumed oak aniline dye to pull the lighter color more in line with the darker fumed color. A couple layers of dye skillfully applied with a cloth did the trick. I then let that added color dry.

I followed with another coat of ragged-on amber shellac. When the shellac was dry, I lightly sanded again with the #400-grit paper, then added a protective layer of paste wax.

Finish completed.


Questions or comments? You can reach Glen at 513-531-2690 ext. 11293 or glen.huey@fwmedia.com.