This weekend I finished work on a traveling version of my “Anarchist’s Tool Chest” that will fit in my hatchback and will carry (almost) a full set of tools. The last detail of the entire project was how to store the three backsaws that are essential to almost every kit: the tenon saw, carcase saw and dovetail saw.
After studying and playing around with a bunch of different ideas, I settled on a traditional rack that is attached to the bottom of the chest. It’s an old solution that I’ve seen on other compact chests (including one that I own), and it gets the three saws in a space that is 2-3/8” wide, 5” tall and as long as your longest backsaw.
Unlike some other solutions, this rack protects the teeth and the fragile sawplate of the backsaw. Saws are the only tools that have been damaged on my travels.
The rack begins as two pieces of wood measuring 1” x 2-3/8” x 3-1/2”. I cut three 1/8” kerfs in the blocks that are spaced 1/2” apart. The depth of the kerf depends on the amount of blade under the spine of each saw.
Then I cut the blocks so they sloped and held the saws in a way that made them easier to grab.
The two racks are 6-1/4” apart from one another and are screwed to the bottom of my chest. The whole thing was a quick 20-minute job and will ensure my saws don’t get bent during my trips. Now I just have to figure out how to keep my students from bending them.
— Christopher Schwarz
Chris -
Why didn’t you protect the fragile sawplates in their entirity by using a solid sawtill like the one featured in Richard Hubbs’ Traveling Tool Chest?
So my query when I see these types of tills or other slotted storage solutions for saws is how you made the kerfs, which obviously look thicker than the kerfs left by the saws in question.
I have the kinked Disston from an old toolbox I bought to show just why using a single saw kerf from the saw in question is a bad idea.
Is it just a case of carefully sawing two parallel kerfs, and knocking out the leftover bit? Or is this a job best left to power? I don’t have any real power tools – Is a jigsaw blade kerf apt to be thick enough or should I borrow a circular saw?
I need to build a tool chest to travel with when I take classes offered at different locations (such as WWOTSV, MASW, etc). I don’t want something the size of the chest in your Anarchist’s book though. Will a sketchup model be posted, or will this be an upcoming article in PW, to give us an idea to start from? Will you be traveling to WIA West with it? Thanks.
Chris has a free download of the SketchUp model for the smaller version of his chest on his web site: http://blog.lostartpress.com/2011/11/07/download-plans-for-the-traveling-tool-chest/
thanks.
will it be an upcoming article (and with a list of potentially includable tools, similar to the lists in ATC’s appendix a)?
Hi Chris, what hammer do you use in the video?
(Posted on the ring pull blog but didn`t get an answer, so I thought I`d try this blog!)
That’s the Gramercy hammer. A fancy little guy indeed.
Thanks.
Are those apple-handled Lie-Nielsens!
WANT!
Excuse my blurt, the exclamation point should have been an question mark…with an exclamation point.
Gosh I think they are apple…. Huh. Must have been a mix-up at the factory.
What is the plan to prevent side to side sliding?
I travel a lot with a chest. When it is full of tools, shop aprons, extra stock, underwear and magazines, nothing slides.
Even with the way I drive. Ask Megan.
Tell the students you use dirty underware for that and they’ll quit borrowing your tools
Excellent suggestion.
Hi Chris,
There is no need to have a blade guard on the back-saws inside the toolbox? You also mentioned the saws were damaged during travel – is that because of sliding tools, or will the saws come out of the holder? Also, how about the saw holder in the lid – is there some lock mechanism to keep the saws in the pockets?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve,
No need to add the guards when they are in a till. The till protects the teeth. Saws that were damaged in transit were loose.
As to the saw till in the lid, I might add some leather ties to hold the totes during long voyages, but these aren’t going to the moon. I’m just looking to make them 1. handy to grab and 2. protected against typical movements.
If I were going overseas and into combat, I’d do it differently.
Was there any particular reason you used
screws instead of glue and/or pins Chris ?
So I can easily make changes in the future when I take up knitting.
Look out for the over-under, or under-over knitting zealots; they are way cattier than the average dovetailian.
Will the lower tray still slide clear to the front, or will the saws need to be removed first?
The saws are at the rear of this chest. And yes, the lower till slides over the saws.