I realize I’m a little late to the conversation, but the other day I figured I would try using bar soap as a lubricant. I’ve always used it for driving screws so I figured why not. I simply rub a few squiggles of soap on the bottom of the plane, and it glides like a dream. Its something most everybody has readily available, and its quite cheap. I haven’t finished anything after using it yet, but I don’t see why it would be a problem.
Where can I buy McQueen’s Pure Mutton Tallow?
I am having a hard time finding it online.
Always operated on that hint to test any finish first on some scrap, if you process the scrap same as you process the build you will see before you start to finish that Chris is correct. Too many boogie men tales, urban legends, and BS in this woodworking stuff. Heck you can douse something with BLO, but get excited about a little oil to keep your tools from rusting, think about it.
Chris do you have an online addy for snake squeezins, I`m almost out, it`s way better than earwax, and Monkeys are such a pain to deal with, they throw stuff at ya.
The *only* thing that ever gave my trouble was a waterborne coating. I suspect that, In Winter, hand lotion caused the headaches I had with the particular coating, in the form of fish eyes. Quit using the hand lotion, and the fish eyes disappeared.
Of course, many people do not consider waterborne coatings for their shop. Using these almost exclusively has eased may of the problems with finishing room design.
With solvent-based coating, never any problems, just like you describe. It literally IS “better living through chemistry”!
Thanks, Chris, for doing the experiments to address this nagging fear. Even though I’ve never had any problems with this, like most woodworkers I still retain a level of fear, usually irrational, with many finishing issues.
To add to your very helpful post, maybe Bob Flexner could do a full article on the issue with more testing and his great explanations.
By the way, silicon is banned from my shop; it just seems unnatural.
Good explanation. We chemists would probably say that the finishes are soluble or miscible (instead of displaced) in each other (non-polar or slightly polar organics soluble in other non-polar organics) with any dilution being negligible, but it all means the same. And you’re right that silicones and PTFE (Teflon is a Dupont trademark) are completely different creatures (e.g. nobody should have the reagents in their home that are required to dissolve PTFE). Of course, if the organic can cross-link prior to the finish being applied then solubility becomes an issue, but not on the timescale of your “fun with lubricants” experiment. Good experiment – great article. Joe
If you spray a finish and have facial hair you should not use a respirator, it will NOT seal. As a person who had to take respirator training once a year at my job, we learned that if you have facial hair the only respirator that you could use was a Bullard (spelling?) hood. IF you have facial hair wearing a respirator will not protect you at all.
I’m not sure about that. I have a fairly close-trimmed beard and I wear the 3M full facemask. During a safety check in which the rep sprays some sort of noxious smoke that makes you cough in your face I didn’t react at all. Obviously I can’t say with certainty that this means it works, but it seemed to work well enough.
As Roy Underhill says in “Working Wood With Wedge and Edge” (I don’t have the text with me, so I’m paraphrasing here) – ‘Of course, if you don’t use a lubricant the wood might be too sweat-stained to take a finish anyway’.
“This evening I had some fun with lubricants.”
…time to break out the monkey fat!!
Can one conclude that taking care to use dewaxed shellac as a sealing coat for your finishing regimen is also something that we don’t have to worry about, either?
I think that depends on your wood and your finish. Read about Konrad Sauer’s experience here: http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2011_01_01_archive.html
I really appreciate this entry. Too often we get caught up in an important fact (contaminates) but forget the most important shop tool, common sense. Of course the lubricant is not going to be a permanent fixture on your plane, as you have to reapply it often while using your plane. That is, unless your plane has a base made of wax!
Also, you should remove the “usually” from the last sentence…
I think it would be best to avoid silicone- and teflon-based lubricants.
Also, the rub-with-lubricant-then-finish trick might not end so happily if you’re using water-based finishes.
Silicone and teflon lubricants are in the “exotic” category in my book.
You can find either one on the shelf of your local home center.
Just use a silicone-based finish and you should be fine!
(Just kidding, I have no idea what would happen if you did that!)
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