Comparing Linseed Oil & Tung Oil - Popular Woodworking Magazine

Comparing Linseed Oil & Tung Oil

 In Flexner on Finishing Blog
linseed oil

Boiled linseed oil and tung oil.

The two commonly available pure oil finishes that can be used on furniture and woodwork with decent results because they cure – that is, turn from a liquid to a soft solid – are linseed oil and tung oil. There are important differences between these two oils.

Raw linseed oil cures much too slowly to be practical, so use “boiled” linseed oil instead. It contains driers, which are catalysts to speed the introduction of oxygen and therefore the curing. It isn’t actually boiled.

You have to be careful with tung oil because many products are labeled “tung oil” when they are actually varnish thinned about half with mineral spirits (paint thinner). It makes no difference whether the varnish was made with tung oil; it’s still varnish. It dries hard and can be built up. You can identify these by reading the fine print on the label, which will list a thinner: “contains petroleum distillates,” “contains mineral spirits,” “contains aliphatic hydrocarbons,” which are different names for the same thing. Real tung oil is usually labeled 100% tung oil and never contains a thinner.

The primary differences between linseed oil and tung oil are as follows:

  • Linseed oil “yellows” more than tung oil. That is, it turns more orange as it ages.
  • Boiled linseed oil cures faster than tung oil, overnight in a warm room when all the excess is wiped off, as opposed to two or three days for tung oil. (Raw linseed oil cures much slower – weeks at a minimum – so raw linseed oil will remain sticky for a long time, even with the excess wiped off).
  • Boiled linseed oil used as a finish can be made presentable with just two or three coats, sanding smooth after the first coat. Tung oil requires five or more coats, and you need to sand between each to remove the roughness.
  • Tung oil is more water resistant than linseed oil because it has approximately three crosslinks between molecules instead of the slightly less than two for linseed oil. But because neither oil hardens well so neither can be built up thick, both are less water resistant than a built-up alkyd or polyurethane varnish, lacquer, shellac or water-based finish.

If you were to choose between using boiled linseed oil or tung oil for your finish, I would think you would almost always want to use boiled linseed oil. The increased water resistance you get with tung oil is too little to compensate for the increased time and effort required to get a presentable finish with tung oil. Think two-to-three weeks with five or more coats.

— Bob Flexner


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Showing 11 comments
  • knothole

    Compare a linseed oil such as Allback against the hardware store brands such as Crown. Think you might find a big difference. I have a section of oak tree in the back yard sitting up on bricks. It survived several years with no problem after liberal application of Allback BLO. I recently rejuvenated it with a mixture of BLO and pine tar, which should make it even better. I have used hardware store BLO on garden tool handles kept under the house where there is dampness; mold grew on the handles. Since converting to Allback, tool handles don’t mold. In fact I love raw linseed oil for tool handles. Handles treated with linseed oil feel much better and provide a superior grip to any film finish.
    In every article I read about linseed oil, the author uses the hardware store stuff. No wonder the results are negative. I am not saying Allback is the cure all for everything, but it will result in improved opinions about linseed oil.

  • danielclay

    I would love to hear your take on Tried & True’s “Varnish Oil”. It received a terrible review from FWW’s Chris Minick but I’ve used it with no issue (Minick’s problem was that it never dried, I think). The company says it uses “natural pine resin”. I’ve emailed them to ask where the resin comes from but not heard back yet. I’m not sure where it falls in the oil-finish or wiping varnish spectrum and would love to hear your take. Thanks!

    p.s. Really enjoying “Understanding Wood Finishing”.

  • MikeyD

    In a not really related note, Can you also do a column contrasting and comparing (oh, those college course essay words) alkyd, polyurethane, and urethane varnishes? I am always wondering what we lost when the market shifted to poly’s.

    • MikeyD

      Whoops! Nevermind. I should learn to search first. Found your 2007 article on the subject.

  • closetluddite

    BLO isn’t used by restoration people because it does continue to darken with age. Also, you can find traditional BLO without the heavy metal driers- look for the containers that don’t carry the State of California warning about chromium, cancer, and reproductive risk. ‘Tried and True’ brand finishes are like this.

  • Scottfab

    Linseed oil is NOT a good solution for a front door. The outside is exposed to moisture so Tung oil is better AND it’s better on the indoor side of the outside door also. Linseed oil will stink up the house for weeks.
    I’d say the choice which to use highly depends on the project.

    • Bob Flexner
      Bob Flexner

      Neither oil is good for exterior surfaces if they are exposed to sun or rain.

      • Kelly Craig

        Mista Bob, if you get time (ha!), could you elaborate on the differences between short and long oil finishes, since we’re talking about interior and exterior finishes?

  • ccarse

    What about polymerized tung oil? How does it compare to BLO? Thanks for sharing your finishing wisdom Bob!

    • Bob Flexner
      Bob Flexner

      Interesting. I almost wrote about this. Stay tuned. It’s complicated.

      • Kelly Craig

        I buy polymerized tung oil by the gallon out of Winthrop, Washington. They sell it with the heavy metal additive you add to the pure tung oil, to speed hardening. It hardens at about the same rate as BLO.

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