A Ripping Good Time
By Brad Holden
If you're just starting to put together
an arsenal of blades for sawing hardwoods,
allow me to make a suggestion:
Get a rip blade.
Sure, a general-purpose blade does a
reasonably good job of ripping boards, but
just wait until you work with stock that’s
2" thick or wood that is really dense, like
maple or white oak. If you replace the general-
purpose blade with a rip blade, such
as the new 20-tooth Forrest Woodworker
II, you’ll be amazed at the difference.
Using a rip blade is almost like adding
extra horsepower to your saw. With
fewer teeth engaged in the wood at any
one time, a rip blade puts a lighter load on
your motor, so it won’t bog down. Having
larger gullets, a rip blade is more efficient
at removing chips. Both factors reduce
friction, resulting in few—if any—burn
marks and a very straight cut.
The Forrest Woodworker II rip blade is available in
full-kerf (.125") and thin-kerf (.100") models. If you have
a contractor’s saw, I’d recommend the thin-kerf.
Forrest Manufacturing, www.ForrestBlades.com, 800-733-7111, 10" 20 Tooth Woodworker II Saw Blade,
Full Kerf, #WW10206125; Thin Kerf, # WW10206100.