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Mobile Router Center

This rolling router center has onboard storage for all your router components, folds into a tidy package, serves as an extra work surface and rolls out of the way when you're done!

By George Vondriska

A router table is one of the most versatile tools you can
add to any shop. Whether you’re making doors or moldings,
router tables are do-it-all tools. This shop-made unit is a
fully featured router table with portability, versatility and
compactness. It’s perfect for any shop in which floor space is
precious. The top has as much real estate as a full-size router
table but, like a benchtop unit, the router center can easily
be stowed when you’re done.

The key to a flat, rigid table is the torsion-box design.
A torsion box is nothing more than a crisscross frame
captured in a top and bottom. It’s easy to build, dead flat
and solid as a rock.

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Use It!

Click any image to view a larger version.

Move It!

Store It!

Unfold It!

Organize It!

1. The router table top is a torsion box, which guarantees a stiff,
flat surface. Assemble it with glue and screws, holding the
edges flush. Brad-nail the parts first to hold them in place while
you drill and drive the screws.

2. Pin the top and bottom skins to the torsion box so they don’t shift during
clamping. Avoid the T-track locations so you don’t rout into a brad later. It
only takes a few brads to hold the parts in place.

3. Glue the torsion-box on your tablesaw. The surface of the saw virtually
guarantees a flat top. Place the hardboard face down on the saw, spread
a uniform film of glue on the hardboard and lay the torsion box on it.
Weight the sandwich with sandbags.

4. Flush-trim the cavity in the bottom of the torsion-box
assembly. Use a jigsaw to remove most of the waste first.

5. Assemble the case using glue and screws. Use layout lines to correctly
locate the skins on the ribs.

6. Taper the sides of the legs using a taper jig on the tablesaw.
The leg sides must be cut to final length before you taper them.

7. Screw the leg hinges to the bottom of the router table top.
The legs should bypass each other when they’re folded.

8. Attach the top assembly to the case using a continuous hinge. Use a pair
of 2-1/4" spacers under the case to make it level with the top.

9. Drill and countersink eight holes through the table insert, and fasten
it to the top with flat-head sheet-metal screws. This ensures your router
won’t tumble out when you fold the table top down.

10. Screw the self-closing hinges to the door and fasten the door to the
case. It’s easier to drive the screws if you first *** the plywood using
a scratch awl.

11. Cut notches in the fence using a jigsaw. After the fence is
assembled, the notches provide clearance for router bits.

12. Assemble the fence with glue and screws. Make sure the face
and base are dead square to each other.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker March 2005, issue #113.

March 2005, issue #113

Purchase this back issue.

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