Jim's Redesigned Router Table Part 2 - Popular Woodworking Magazine

Jim’s Redesigned Router Table Part 2

 In Projects, Shop Projects

We’ll start where we left off last time. To see part one of this project, click here. Or you can view the entire project in the PDF plans found at the bottom of this page. Starting from page 11 in the pdf plans, we’ve built the router table cabinet. Now it’s time to fill it with 2 pullouts (these two pullout will hold 90 router bits) and a drawer for storing router bits , extra collets, wrenches and a couple of feather boards.


Cut out the pullout parts. Use on of the shelves to arrange your router bits. These are the largest cutter I have and they all fit on one shelf. I marked the hole locations and drilled them about halfway through the shelf. I drilled the rest of the shelves with two rows of holes spaced fairly evenly, just using my eye to gauge the distance between holes. I drilled three shelves with ½” holes and the other three with ¼” holes. I ended up with ninety holes total — more than enough for now and the future.

Screw the pullout parts together. I made one pullout for my router bits with ½” shanks the the other for my ¼”-shanked bits.

Glue up the pullout spacers. Use whatever scraps you have handy. Some of mine are made of plywood and some are made of leftover pine. So far, I’ve spent no money for materials. All this wood is leftover from other projects.


I After the glue has dried, machine the pullout spaces to their final dimensions and cut them to length. The spacers span the panels and are glued to the legs only. Locate them at the bottoms of the top rails and at the top of the bottom rails. Yeah, I think that’s right. After the glue has dried, draw lines on the spacers perpendicular to the front rails. These are the center lines for the drawer siides. Drill pilot holes and install the screws to attach the slides to the spacers.

Measure the distance between centers on the slides you installed on the spacers Transfer this distance to the pullouts and attach the drawer sildes to the pullouts. I allowed ¼” clearance at the top and bottoms of the pullouts. Using two slides on one side of a pullout is a bit unusual, but it works great. If the pullout doesn’t work perfect the first time, you can tweak the drawer sildes a bit by removing the all but the front screws on the spacer slides. Run the pullout into the cabinet about three-fourths in. This will allow the spacer slides to align with the slides on the pullout. Replace the screws, drilling new pilot holes if necessary.

Now cut out the parts for the box. I glued and screwed them together for positive holding strength. This box will look like a little cabinet when it’s done. The back runs the full length top to bottom. The front needs top and bottom railis

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