“An adjustable assembly table, huh?
Well, you’re wasting your time unless it’s
a simple design that’s easy to operate.”
That’s what a fellow woodworker said when I told him about
the latest scheme to improve my shop. I don’t know how many
times I’ve wished for a worktable that was shorter, or taller, than
what I had.
I took my friend’s advice as a challenge and went to work.
I designed an inexpensive mechanism that allows the legs to
ratchet up and down, plus a lightweight but very strong tabletop. He was just as pleased as I was
with the result: a huge table that goes up and down with ease.
These two-part legs employ a system of notches and locking
arms (ratchets and pawls in engineering terminology) that allow
you to change the table’s height in 1” increments. The weight of
the table and the geometry of the mechanism firmly force the leg
Operation of the legs is simple. To increase the table’s
height, just lift each end. As you lift, the ratchet arms move freely,
“clicking” from notch to notch. They lock automatically once you
stop lifting. To decrease height, you step on a bungee cord, lift
the table slightly to unlock the pawls, then lower the table. When
you remove your foot from the bungee the pawls engage the
ratchet and lock the legs and table at that height.
Make the ratchets
1. I used white oak to make the legs, but any strong hardwood
will do. It’s OK to glue them up from thinner pieces. Mill the
upper legs (A) and lower legs (B) to size (see Cutting List, below). These legs will make a table that adjusts from 22” to 35” high.
If you’d like a different range of heights, make the legs shorter or
longer (see Leg Sizing Chart, below).
2. Begin making the ratchets in the upper legs (Fig. B) by cutting
dadoes. Make an indexing jig for your miter gauge to ensure
that all the dadoes are accurately spaced (Photo 1). My jig is 3/4”
x 3” x 24”, but the exact size isn’t important. Use a dado set to
cut a 3/8” wide by 15/32” deep notch in the jig’s center. Glue a 4”
long alignment pin in the notch–it should fit fairly tight.
3. Position the jig on the miter gauge so that the distance from
the dado set to the indexing pin is exactly 5/8”. Make some test
cuts to verify this spacing, then fasten the jig to the miter gauge.
Raise the dado set 1/32” to cut a notch 1/2” deep.
4. Cut 14 dadoes down the length of each upper leg (Photos
2 and 3). Cut 6 similar dadoes in a scrap piece to help set up the
5. Cut the angled sides of the ratchets. First, remove
the dado set and install a crosscut or general purpose
blade. Tilt the blade to the 38° mark on the saw's bevel
scale. Raise the blade to make a cut 1/2" high–the same
as the notches. Reposition the indexing jig so that the
blade cuts to the corner of the notch (Photo 4). (On a
right-tilt saw, like mine, position the alignment pin on
the left side of the blade. On a left-tilt saw, position
it on the right side.) Temporarily clamp the jig to the
miter gauge and make test cuts in your scrap piece.
Check your accuracy by placing a 1/2” bolt in the ratchet–
it should nest in the bottom. When everything looks
good, fasten the jig to the miter gauge. Begin at the
top of the leg (Photo 5) and finish cutting the ratchets.
Cut sliding dovetails
6. Large sliding dovetails keep the leg sections
together when you adjust the table’s height (Fig. C).
To help guide your cuts, draw tails on both ends of
one of the upper legs. Draw sockets on both ends of
one of the lower legs. My dovetails have an 8° angle
because I have a large 8° router bit in my collection,
but a different angle would work OK, too. Whatever
bit you use, it must be large enough to cut a 3/4" deep
dovetail. Begin by removing most of the waste on all
of the legs using the tablesaw. Install a 3/8" wide dado
set in your saw and set its height to 11/16". Plow out
the waste from the center of the lower legs (Photo 6),
staying 1/16” away from the dovetail layout lines. For
the upper legs, reset the fence and remove most of the
waste in the same manner.
7. Finish the dovetails on a router table, beginning
with the sockets in the lower legs. Raise the bit
3/4” high. Position the fence to make a light cut, then
make two passes, one from each side of the leg. Reset
the fence to make another light cut, and continue the
sequence until you reach the layout lines.
8. Next, rout tails to fit the sockets. Lower the bit
1/32” so there will be clearance between the tail and
socket. Before you begin, mark all the upper and lower
legs in pairs: two A’s, two B’s, etc. Rout tails on each
piece, again taking small cuts from alternate sides
(Photo 7). Test the pieces as you go–some tail pieces
may require a bit more taken off than others in order to
fit their mates. The finished dovetails should slide easily
but have minimal freeplay. When you’re done, apply
paste wax to all the sliding surfaces.
Fit the legs
9. My table has sockets to receive the legs, but you
can attach the legs to a table by a variety of methods.
I removed part of the tail on the upper legs so they
would fit in the sockets (Photo 8). This cut is 2-1/2”
long. For a permanent installation, you can glue the
legs into the sockets. I made the legs removable,
attaching them with machine bolts and T-nuts (Photo
10. Use a drill press to make a 1/2” dia. hole in
the top end of each lower leg (Fig. D). This hole will
receive a 1/2” bolt, part of the ratchet arm mechanism.
A tight fit is OK–the bolt doesn’t have to rotate.
11. Add stops (J) on the bottom of each upper leg to
prevent the ratchet arm pawls from sliding off the legs
if you lift the table too high (Fig. F). (If you add braces
to the legs, an optional step below, these stops aren’t
necessary.) Make the stops from 3/8” x 3” x 3” metal
corner braces. Use a hacksaw to cut one side of the
brace. Use an existing hole or drill a new one on the
other side of the brace and fasten the brace to the leg.
Make the ratchet arms
12. You’ll need to make four ratchet arm assemblies,
one for each leg (Fig. A). Each assembly is composed
of two metal plates, which are available at any hardware
store. One plate has a 90° angle-it's made from a
flat corner brace. The other plate is straight-it's made
from a mending plate or flat bar stock. You'll have to
drill holes in the plates, and it's very important that
all the holes line up with each other. Most mending
plates and corner braces are pre-drilled, though, which
could be a problem. If you attempt to drill a new hole
that overlaps an existing hole, your drill will wander off
center. You may need to be creative in locating the
bolt holes. For one of the holes in the corner braces,
I enlarged an existing hole. I couldn't find mending
plates with suitable hole locations, so I used flat bar
13. Make a jig to hold the plates while drilling the
holes (Photo 10). You can stack the plates or drill
them one at a time. Use a center punch to mark the
holes first, then begin with a 1/16” pilot hole running
at 1,000 rpm. Gradually increase the hole’s size using
larger diameter bits. Reduce the drill speed with each
bit and lubricate the bit with machine oil. Drill all similar
holes in both types of plates before repositioning
Assemble the legs
14. Assemble and attach the ratchet arm assemblies
to the lower legs (Fig. A) using bolts (E and F), washers
(G), and stop nuts (H). Tighten the stop nuts until the
arms are parallel and there is minimal slop (Photo 11).
The arms must rotate freely.
15. Lift the ratchet arms and slide the lower leg onto
the upper leg. Temporarily clamp the legs sections
together and attach the legs to the table.
16. Thread a 6” piece of vinyl tubing (L) over a 48”
long piece of bungee cord (K). (The vinyl tubing protects
the bungee from premature wear.) Thread one
end of the bungee through the hole in the end of the
ratchet arm and knot the end. Thread the other end
through the other ratchet arm. Tie a knot so the cord
hangs 6” above the floor, but is not tight. Leave the excess cord for now. If there is interference between
the knots and the legs, slightly bend the ends of the
arms away from the legs.
17. Raise the table by lifting at each end. The ratchet
arms should “click” freely from notch to notch. If they
do not, you may need to loosen the ratchet arm stop
nuts or enlarge the bolt holes in the ratchet arms.
18. Lower the table by stepping on the release cord
and lifting the table slightly. The pawls should disengage
immediately and allow you lower the table. If the
ratchet arms swing, but the pawls don’t fully disengage,
shorten the bungee. As soon as you remove your
foot from the bungee the pawls should immediately
fall under their own weight, re-engage the ratchet, and
lock the table.
19. You can easily add two metal braces to each
leg for additional stability (Photo 12). Fabricate the leg
braces from 1/2” thin-wall EMT electrical conduit. On
each brace, flatten both ends with a vise and/or a hammer. Make sure the flat sections have the same
20. On my table, the short braces are attached to
the top with lag bolts, which go into the reinforcing
blocks around the legs. The long braces are connected
to the top with machine bolts, which go into T-nuts in
additional reinforcing blocks. To install the braces, start
by removing the ratchet stops, if you’ve installed them.
Drill a 3/16” by 1” deep pilot hole centered in the bottom
of each upper leg. Drill the holes in the short braces,
bend the ends to fit the table, and install the braces.
For the long braces, drill holes on the ends that attach
to the legs, and attach the braces to the legs. Mark the
locations of the T-nuts on the other ends, remove the
braces, and drill holes in the braces for the machine
bolts that go in the T-nuts.
Fig. A: Exploded View
Fig. B: Notch Layout
Fig. C: Dovetail Layout
Fig. D: Pivot Bolt
Hole in Lower Leg
Fig. E: Layout of
Fig. F: Pawl Stop
Click any image to view a larger version.
1. Make an indexing jig for cutting ratchets in the legs. Cut a
notch in the jig using a dado set. Glue an alignment peg in the
notch and attach the jig to your miter gauge.
2. Use the jig to cut evenly-spaced notches in the upper sections
of the legs. Place the bottom end of the leg against the side of
the alignment peg to make the first cut.
3. Reposition the leg after the each cut. Place the new notch over
the indexing peg and cut the next notch. Repeat the procedure
to cut all the notches.
4. Tilt the sawblade to cut a relief angle in each notch, making a
ratchet. Reposition the indexing jig and make test cuts on scrap–
the spacing is correct when a 1/2” bolt bottoms out in the notch.
5. Saw all the relief angles. Start with the notch nearest the top
of the leg and work your way down. Each ratchet is identical and
6. Begin making the legs’ sliding dovetails by removing most of
the waste. The lower half of each leg has a socket, shown here.
The upper half has a mating tail.
7. Finish the dovetails on the router table. First, rout all the socket
pieces. Then cut the tail pieces to fit.
8. Saw off the tails at the top of the upper legs. This leaves a
9. The bottom of the assembly table has a socket for each leg. Bolts and t-nuts allow you to
remove the legs so you can store the table out of the way.
10. Make four ratchet arms from hardware store flat corner braces.
Drill identically-spaced holes in the braces by stacking the pieces
in a jig.
11. Mount the ratchet arms to the lower legs. Add a bolt between
the arms as a pawl to engage the ratchets.
12. To make the legs extra-sturdy, add braces made from electrical