Comments on: Ripping Thin Stuff Safely

By: Eric R

Eric R — Sat, 27 Aug 2011 03:47:04 +0000

Better that getting cut up then my hand!
Thanks Bob; that’s the next quick project while I’m waiting for some glue-ups to dry.

By: als0677

als0677 — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 20:59:51 +0000

I just use a piece of 2×6 cut similar to the blade side profile of the jig above. The width and height of dimensional lumber works better for me and helps keep both hands safely away from the blade.

By: PeteJacobsen

PeteJacobsen — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 16:34:27 +0000

I’ve constructed similar jigs. Like others, the place I need help is with keeping the workpiece against the fence. Yeah, a featherboard does fine, but if you are making repeated cuts of same-size pieces, the featherboard must be adjusted for each cut.

I wish I had a tool that rides in the miter slot and has a spring so that it automatically adjusts over a range of several inches, providing roughly the same amount of sideways push regardless of spring position.

By: edeverett

edeverett — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 15:30:45 +0000

I made one of these 5 or 6 years ago and it has proven invaluable. To make it a little more flexible, I made each side piece with a different notch height so that I can quickly accommodate varying thicknesses of stock without have to change out a side. Thicker or thinner stock? Just rotate the jig end-for-end and you’re in business. And in response to introp, I use my left hand to force the stock against the fence at the beginning of the cut, just like normal. As I approach the blade, I remove my left hand. I’ve found that the downward pressure exerted by the jig’s side piece on the stock is enough to maintain it tight to the fence in the last few inches of the cut.

By: CessnapilotBarry

CessnapilotBarry — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:42:30 +0000

That’s a really neat idea I haven’t seen before. I also use an overarm guard, and I like the way this tool would keep your hand clear to the right of the guard.

A Gripper or push block centers your hand over or to the left of the blade and interferes with the guard / DC pickup. The Rockler thingie isn’t as quick to set up as the fence, but is good for a large number of cuts. This tool is a great addition to the quiver.

I keep a set of zero clearance inserts set up with glued-in splitters of varying heights (3/16 – 3/8 – 7/8″), which do a nice job of keeping the already cut stock against the fence.

Thanks! I’m going to make one of these.

By: tyvekboy

tyvekboy — Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:28:58 +0000

That jig looks safer than a push stick for stuff 1/4 inch and BIGGER. If you really want to control the wood around your saw blade, I think the Micro Jig GRR-Ripper (Rockler #62689) is a better choice for 1/4 inch and bigger.
For REALLY THIN stuff, I prefer cutting that on the side of the blade AWAY from the fence using the Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig (Rockler #36833) along with a zero clearance insert and an appropriate sized push stick.

By: TOD

TOD — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:36:21 +0000

I could have used this article or should I say a reminder about a week ago yesterday when I experienced kickback. My push stick caught the edge of the saw blade and the result were 9 stitches in my arm. Lesson learned…..

By: Robert W. Lang

Robert W. Lang — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:45:16 +0000

I apply sideways force with my left hand, which (as can be seen) I keep well back from the blade until the far edge of the piece being cut is past the back of the blade. If it were shorter or thinner, I would use a conventional push stick or a scrap of wood to keep the stock against the fence.

By: introp

introp — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 16:33:14 +0000

It’s a neat fixture, but I’ve a question: what provides the force to keep the stock against the fence? It seems like any pressure in that direction from your fingers in the picture puts you in the “one slip and your new nickname is Righty” category.