Comments on: New Workbench Build

By: Glen D. Huey

Glen D. Huey — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:42:21 +0000

You are correct, sir. I did get the correct issue, but the wrong year. I made the changes. Thank you.

By: Glen D. Huey

Glen D. Huey — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:38:10 +0000

Ouch. I plan to use this bench sometime in the near future. If I build each drawer with a different joint, I may get into 2014 before I begin another project.

By: Glen D. Huey

Glen D. Huey — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:35:07 +0000

On the Shaker bench built for the December 2007 issue and the one I use at home, the top extended beyond the bench base at the front. There is enough room for those hold-fasts to work – they will prevent you from opening the drawers when being used. On my next bench, I plan to have the same arrangement, and I plan to leave open space between the top and rails.

By: jqlouie

jqlouie — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 07:29:03 +0000

Hi Glen,
I had worked in Asia for over twelve years before returning state-side; where I had access to the Ships Carpenter Shop and its power tools. Now home and remodeling all my hand tools where in several boxes and limited power tools (drills, routers, biscuit jointer) I needed tool storage and organization. My solution was to get to know the people at the local lumber yard and for a couple of pizzas they cut my plywood to size at their convenience. I then build two drawer units with twenty-six drawer’s total.

The individual drawers are not elegant but have stood up well for over three years now and where fast to build. The draw boxes sides were assembled with biscuit joints, glue, brads, and quarter inch plywood bottoms in routed dados. Maybe someday I’ll remake them but for now they remain strong and functional.

By: jbreiby

jbreiby — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 19:09:43 +0000

Hi Glen,
In 1983, before I knew how to do it any fancier, I built my kitchen cabinets drawers using drawer joints cut on the table saw in AB fir plywood. Though they’re not fancy, they were quick to build and have held up to daily sliding in an out for the past 30 years with no apparent damage to any of them.
But here’s a question for you: I built a Roubo workbench last summer with a 4 1/2″- thick top, and also would like to fit drawers in it. But how do you do it so they don’t obstruct the hold-fast holes? I love the Gramercy Holdfasts, but they hang down 4 3/4″ below the top, right into where the drawers would be. Do you not use holdfasts, or have you come up with a solution?
Thanks

By: zepe

zepe — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 14:18:44 +0000

When I built mine I later decided to add six drawers with full extension glides. I didn’t want fancy just quick so I used pocket screws for the corners which I also glued and they work great. KISS

By: rnease

rnease — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 01:16:28 +0000

Glenn, good to have you back at PW. A couple of years ago at WIA, you did a seminar on drawers with one table saw setup. Those drawers are very strong, very quick, and easy to make, and will do fine for a workbench. I have used it over and over again in my shop, and even for some quick throw together stuff for other people. One modification I made was to use 1/2″ baltic birch for the bottoms, as well as the sides. Then, you got yourself a bygolly really strong drawer. Again, welcome back.

By: John Hutchinson

John Hutchinson — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:32:46 +0000

Home Depot. Modular storage drawers.

By: Gary Smyth

Gary Smyth — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:16:02 +0000

This is for go, not for show — except for publication I suppose. Sliding dovetails will be quick and strong for drawers up to 12″ high. With a bit of planning one set up and all the drawers can be run at once. Build a grid frame out of 1/2″ ply with spaces for each drawer. Slide that frame as a unit into the space under the top. Allow the drawers to slide on/within that frame (no drawer slides required) and allow the finished and waxed drawers (24″ long) to slide through the frame to open either side of the bench. Very convenient, especially if some pointy thing wedges itself into the interior of the frame. I made three drawers at the top 1 3/4″ high for pencils, magnifiers, mini flashlights, markers and drafting tools, etc., but I regret not making them 2 1/4″ high (top of drawer to top of carpeted interior). BTW even after a decade of everyday use, if storing several big planes in lower 10″ high drawers a sliding dovetail will be plenty strong for a lifetime.

By: OFFSET

OFFSET — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:37:23 +0000

Glen, why not use a different joint for each drawer?