Comments on: Amazing Device for Laying out Complex Joints

By: Paul Feller

Paul Feller — Fri, 24 Dec 2010 03:04:18 +0000

I’m with Andrew – completely lost from either description. Maybe you could put this in the magazine with step-by-step photos for us slow but visual folks?

Thanks!
P Feller

By: Alan Schaffter

Alan Schaffter — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 15:45:11 +0000

Pretty nice, straightforward, and simple!!!

But . . . I’m waiting for the tip how to cut the shoulders and tenons . . . JUST AS EASILY! How about a "Tenon Master 3000" that is just as simple AND JUST AS INEXPENSIVE for the tablesaw or router for those of use who would rather do it that way than with the appropriate hand saw and chisels, etc.

FYI, one other way that doesn’t require as much marking- if you have full size plans, make enough copies of the proper view and attached them with rubber cement to each part.

By: Dennis Reischl

Dennis Reischl — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 15:34:45 +0000

Bob–Thanks much for sharing this, but like Andrew, and despite your additional explanation, I’m having a hard time picturing the process. Any chance of shooting a short blog video of it? Dennis

By: Bob Lang

Bob Lang — Sat, 18 Dec 2010 02:08:03 +0000

Andrew,

As you can see in the second photo, all I did was trace the location of the tenon from the stick to the top of the curved rail. The shoulder line needs to be transferred all the way around the curved rail. I just marked with a square down each side of the rail, from where the pencil line meets the edge.

The shoulder line is traced on the top, I went completely across that edge with an adjustable bevel set to the pencil line. Then I used the bevel to mark the opposite edge. I cut the shoulders by hand with a back saw (after knifing over the pencil lines). I made the cheek cuts on the bandsaw, cutting just outside the pencil lines on the top edges.

By: Andrew Yang

Andrew Yang — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 20:42:12 +0000

I get a bit lost in the description of how you end up marking the tenons. Any chance of a few additional pictures to help the description along. Seems like a bit much for the Stickmaster 3000, but I’m a bit new (or slow).

By: Ed in Lawrence, KS

Ed in Lawrence, KS — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 18:39:57 +0000

Bob,
I notice that you made your back rails via lamination rather than steam bending. I have your plans for the Morris chair and, based on the old Stickley book that Lee Valley sells, was going to steam bend the slats. Which is more authentic? Also, I’m interested in how you cut the rails. Marking is the first test, making the cuts is the second. My thoughts right now are similar to what Steve says, i.e., attach pieces to the curved slats to make them "square" so I can use my table saw.

By: Steve

Steve — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:30:35 +0000

I have a simple and fully general technique that I use when I’m confronted with odd angles and curves: I ask myself the question, "What material would I have to add to the piece to convert it into a simple rectangular block, with mortises and tenons that are square to the surfaces?" And then I add that material, either using double-sided carpet tape to add it directly to the workpiece, or else attaching it with screws to any jig or fixture that the workpiece will be mounted to.

Once the workpiece has been "rectangularized" in this way, laying out the joints is pretty simple.

Whenever possible, I actually start from the other end, so to speak: I start with a rectangular block of stock that’s large enough to contain the workpiece, cut the joints, then "carve" the workpiece out of the block.

By: Patrick

Patrick — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 02:08:43 +0000

In this application I’d call it a Stick-ley.

By: Mike Thompon

Mike Thompon — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 01:20:08 +0000

Mr. Lang,

This is a fantastic tip, thank you so much for sharing. It makes me wish I could have just a few hours to work with a true master to learn how things should be done and how to think about thinks more efficiently. I guess for now I’ll just have to settle for your blog entries, magazine articles, and fantastic books (most of which I own…they are some of my favorites).

Thank you again.
Mike

By: Rob Porcaro

Rob Porcaro — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 00:22:32 +0000

Bob,

Thanks for this tip!

Here’s how I have laid out tenon shoulders on a curved apron:

Mark the location of the shoulders on the inner edge of the curve. Place a straightedge on the edge of the bent lamination as a chord across the curve, intersecting it where the shoulders will be. The shoulder line is drawn square with a plastic drafting square held against the straightedge at the intersections. It works but is a bit awkward and I’m still left with having to draft out the tenon cheeks on the wood.

I like your direct method much better! It takes care of everything. I hope I remember it for the next time the situation arises.

To make an adjustable "Lang Innovations, Inc." "Universal Stickmaster 3000", I guess you could put two short pieces, each with a tenon, on a sliding T-track inlaid in a long stick. Of course, make it from brass and anodized aluminum and guarantee "perfect joints every time."

Thanks again,

Rob