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> <channel><title>Comments on: Roorkhee Details to Avoid Disaster</title> <atom:link href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster</link> <description>Woodworking advice, woodworking plans, woodworking projects and woodworking blogs</description> <lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 03:30:45 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator> <item><title>By: DocZimmy</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-69961</link> <dc:creator>DocZimmy</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 29 Nov 2012 16:54:52 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-69961</guid> <description><![CDATA[I would be interested to know how the 12 1/2 inch seat height works out.  All of the chairs in our house are 17-20 inches high at the seat.  I should think a seat that low would be more like sitting on a small stool.  Thanks.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would be interested to know how the 12 1/2 inch seat height works out.  All of the chairs in our house are 17-20 inches high at the seat.  I should think a seat that low would be more like sitting on a small stool.  Thanks.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: dtody</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-68571</link> <dc:creator>dtody</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 27 Nov 2012 15:36:21 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-68571</guid> <description><![CDATA[I just costed out the materials and it looks like $600 for two chairs (white oak).  I also noticed that the article stated you were working on a run of twenty for orders.  What would be an approx sale price?]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just costed out the materials and it looks like $600 for two chairs (white oak).  I also noticed that the article stated you were working on a run of twenty for orders.  What would be an approx sale price?</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Brandon Ryder</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-67751</link> <dc:creator>Brandon Ryder</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2012 06:00:41 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-67751</guid> <description><![CDATA[By the way, I also found a roorkhee chair depicted in a movie. The 1985 film &quot;Out of Africa.&quot;
There is a youtube video showing clips from the movie and the chair appears at 3:11 in that video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvHdlVZYaR8If anyone knows any other films that depict roorkhee chairs, post them. I&#039;d like to see them!]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By the way, I also found a roorkhee chair depicted in a movie. The 1985 film &#8220;Out of Africa.&#8221;<br
/> There is a youtube video showing clips from the movie and the chair appears at 3:11 in that video:<br
/> <a
href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvHdlVZYaR8" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvHdlVZYaR8</a></p><p>If anyone knows any other films that depict roorkhee chairs, post them. I&#8217;d like to see them!</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Brandon Ryder</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-67741</link> <dc:creator>Brandon Ryder</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2012 05:50:16 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-67741</guid> <description><![CDATA[I just finished my chair this weekend following the article design. It looks just like yours which is what I was going for because I LOVE the details of your design.The only change I made was to use copper rivets throughout and to ditch the leg straps in favor of an adjustable cross brace under the seat. If we can post links, then the link to pictures of my project will appear below:http://s34.beta.photobucket.com/user/thenodnarb/media/Furniture/IMG_4591.jpg.html?sort=6&amp;o=0I still have to find the garnet shellac which apparently I have to order online. All I can find in stores is the orange/amber shellac.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just finished my chair this weekend following the article design. It looks just like yours which is what I was going for because I LOVE the details of your design.</p><p>The only change I made was to use copper rivets throughout and to ditch the leg straps in favor of an adjustable cross brace under the seat. If we can post links, then the link to pictures of my project will appear below:</p><p><a
href="http://s34.beta.photobucket.com/user/thenodnarb/media/Furniture/IMG_4591.jpg.html?sort=6&#038;o=0" rel="nofollow">http://s34.beta.photobucket.com/user/thenodnarb/media/Furniture/IMG_4591.jpg.html?sort=6&#038;o=0</a></p><p>I still have to find the garnet shellac which apparently I have to order online. All I can find in stores is the orange/amber shellac.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: bbrun47</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-67551</link> <dc:creator>bbrun47</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2012 00:45:34 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-67551</guid> <description><![CDATA[Chris,
If I&#039;m making this chair using canvas, what weight of canvas is recomended?
Thanks,
Bill]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chris,<br
/> If I&#8217;m making this chair using canvas, what weight of canvas is recomended?<br
/> Thanks,<br
/> Bill</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: PJ</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-59641</link> <dc:creator>PJ</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 06 Nov 2012 19:25:39 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-59641</guid> <description><![CDATA[I am making this chair. The one in photo above doesn&#039;t have the straps crossing the front legs and then again the back legs like the one in magazine. I like the style of the one above better. From what I gather you’ve substituted the two crossing straps with one strap with buckles that loops around the two side rails correct?  What are the measurements for that strap? Thanks]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am making this chair. The one in photo above doesn&#8217;t have the straps crossing the front legs and then again the back legs like the one in magazine. I like the style of the one above better. From what I gather you’ve substituted the two crossing straps with one strap with buckles that loops around the two side rails correct?  What are the measurements for that strap? Thanks</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: tsstahl</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-57881</link> <dc:creator>tsstahl</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 30 Oct 2012 14:24:32 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-57881</guid> <description><![CDATA[Thank you, Greg.  Your time and consideration are appreciated.I might actually make a pair of these now.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you, Greg.  Your time and consideration are appreciated.</p><p>I might actually make a pair of these now.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: GregMiller</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-57721</link> <dc:creator>GregMiller</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 28 Oct 2012 23:58:07 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-57721</guid> <description><![CDATA[I made a lot of these chairs commercially some years ago. I never used dowels from a hardware store, as they would not be the type of timber I wanted. So I made my own legs and stretchers, from straight grained timber of my choice. I used a woodlathe to turn them down, from 1 1/4&quot; (30mm) stock, which gave me a finished diameter just under 1 1/4&quot;. I reckon 1&quot; diameter is a bit thin when large people plonk down in the chair. Beefed up is better and consistency of diameter is important aesthetically.So you don&#039;t have a wood lathe?  Here are a few suggestions for making the stretchers round:1. Use a router rounding over bit (with roller bearing) , with a radius of one half of the thickness of your square stock. Run it along each of the four corners, and you have created a round stretcher. A little sanding will help remove any irregularities. Irregularities are reduced if you use a router table, and keep a small square section at each end of the stick, which you have cut over-long to allow for this.  This will help maintain the registration of the faces correctly.2. Start with square stock and remove the corners to create an octagon. Do that again and you have a 16 faced polygon. Very nice just left like that! Or sand this profile to round. Sanding from 16 face polygon to the round is done by rotating it and bending sandpaper around the revolving stretcher. How about creatively chucking it in your drill press with a nail dead centre in the opposite end housed into a vice or piece of wood. It works, but you can&#039;t beat a wood lathe for the sanding either...How to create the polygon? Hand plane it, or use a table saw with a tilting arbor, etc. My favourite method is to create jigs for your thicknesser so you can consistently machine the faces. This way you can go further and create a 32 faced polygon if you are crazy enough!3. In the spirit of our favourite anarchist, use your hand plane to take off the corners and then create the round. Use a spokeshave (or drawknife if you are experienced enough), use a moulding plane with a radius as close as you can get, create a scraper with the right kind of radius to help clean up the prifile consistently, etc.
...Just don&#039;t use a dowel plate. It will look like crap, with torn fibres everywhere, slight dog-legs according to the grain deviations, etc.Just remember, the true woodworking anarchist would not buy pre-made dowels on principle! Somebody else has determined the diameter and species of timber. No. Be your own independent person, choose your own wood type and diameter, create your own way of solving the problems, and go for it.Just a word of warning about lovely straight grained hardwood stretchers - beware of &quot;falling shakes&quot; in the timber. Read and inspect your stock very carefully.Above all, enjoy the delights of these beautiful chairs.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I made a lot of these chairs commercially some years ago. I never used dowels from a hardware store, as they would not be the type of timber I wanted. So I made my own legs and stretchers, from straight grained timber of my choice. I used a woodlathe to turn them down, from 1 1/4&#8243; (30mm) stock, which gave me a finished diameter just under 1 1/4&#8243;. I reckon 1&#8243; diameter is a bit thin when large people plonk down in the chair. Beefed up is better and consistency of diameter is important aesthetically.</p><p>So you don&#8217;t have a wood lathe?  Here are a few suggestions for making the stretchers round:</p><p>1. Use a router rounding over bit (with roller bearing) , with a radius of one half of the thickness of your square stock. Run it along each of the four corners, and you have created a round stretcher. A little sanding will help remove any irregularities. Irregularities are reduced if you use a router table, and keep a small square section at each end of the stick, which you have cut over-long to allow for this.  This will help maintain the registration of the faces correctly.</p><p>2. Start with square stock and remove the corners to create an octagon. Do that again and you have a 16 faced polygon. Very nice just left like that! Or sand this profile to round. Sanding from 16 face polygon to the round is done by rotating it and bending sandpaper around the revolving stretcher. How about creatively chucking it in your drill press with a nail dead centre in the opposite end housed into a vice or piece of wood. It works, but you can&#8217;t beat a wood lathe for the sanding either&#8230;</p><p>How to create the polygon? Hand plane it, or use a table saw with a tilting arbor, etc. My favourite method is to create jigs for your thicknesser so you can consistently machine the faces. This way you can go further and create a 32 faced polygon if you are crazy enough!</p><p>3. In the spirit of our favourite anarchist, use your hand plane to take off the corners and then create the round. Use a spokeshave (or drawknife if you are experienced enough), use a moulding plane with a radius as close as you can get, create a scraper with the right kind of radius to help clean up the prifile consistently, etc.<br
/> &#8230;Just don&#8217;t use a dowel plate. It will look like crap, with torn fibres everywhere, slight dog-legs according to the grain deviations, etc.</p><p>Just remember, the true woodworking anarchist would not buy pre-made dowels on principle! Somebody else has determined the diameter and species of timber. No. Be your own independent person, choose your own wood type and diameter, create your own way of solving the problems, and go for it.</p><p>Just a word of warning about lovely straight grained hardwood stretchers &#8211; beware of &#8220;falling shakes&#8221; in the timber. Read and inspect your stock very carefully.</p><p>Above all, enjoy the delights of these beautiful chairs.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Steve_OH</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-57701</link> <dc:creator>Steve_OH</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 28 Oct 2012 18:06:45 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-57701</guid> <description><![CDATA[To add to Brandon&#039;s reply: The surface finish of a dowel that has been made via dowel plate isn&#039;t that great, since you&#039;re basically tearing, squishing and otherwise mangling the wood surface as you force it through the plate. I&#039;ve also noticed that a dowel made using a dowel plate tends to get somewhat &quot;bumpy&quot; over time, as compressed areas of the surface relax and expand back to their original size.-Steve]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To add to Brandon&#8217;s reply: The surface finish of a dowel that has been made via dowel plate isn&#8217;t that great, since you&#8217;re basically tearing, squishing and otherwise mangling the wood surface as you force it through the plate. I&#8217;ve also noticed that a dowel made using a dowel plate tends to get somewhat &#8220;bumpy&#8221; over time, as compressed areas of the surface relax and expand back to their original size.</p><p>-Steve</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Brandon Ryder</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/roorkhee-details-to-avoid-disaster/comment-page-1#comment-57641</link> <dc:creator>Brandon Ryder</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 28 Oct 2012 01:49:38 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=245521#comment-57641</guid> <description><![CDATA[You might have a tough time running stock through a 1&quot; dowel plate. You might consider an alternate method to making your dowels. If you don&#039;t have a lathe, there are several jigs you can build for use with a router and router table. But remember that the stretchers don&#039;t really NEED to be round. You can get them close with a draw knife and spoke shave, and use the tapered tenon cutter for the tenon. You can still used riven stock so its straight grained.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You might have a tough time running stock through a 1&#8243; dowel plate. You might consider an alternate method to making your dowels. If you don&#8217;t have a lathe, there are several jigs you can build for use with a router and router table. But remember that the stretchers don&#8217;t really NEED to be round. You can get them close with a draw knife and spoke shave, and use the tapered tenon cutter for the tenon. You can still used riven stock so its straight grained.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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