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> <channel><title>Comments on: Old eyes or bad bulbs?</title> <atom:link href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs</link> <description>Woodworking advice, woodworking plans, woodworking projects and woodworking blogs</description> <lastBuildDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 02:04:06 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator> <item><title>By: John Verreault</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22430</link> <dc:creator>John Verreault</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 30 Dec 2011 05:56:33 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22430</guid> <description><![CDATA[Excellent points Adam. My opthamologist says my vision hasn&#039;t change yet, so I will follow your advice as my shop bulbs are getting into that age range and things do not look the same.CheersJohn]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excellent points Adam. My opthamologist says my vision hasn&#8217;t change yet, so I will follow your advice as my shop bulbs are getting into that age range and things do not look the same.</p><p>Cheers</p><p>John</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: lawrence</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22416</link> <dc:creator>lawrence</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 27 Dec 2011 13:24:35 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22416</guid> <description><![CDATA[I know this is going to make some of you laugh, but I got a serious boost in my lighting when I cleaned off the outside of my bulbs and lights.  The reduction in dust really showed.Lawrence]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I know this is going to make some of you laugh, but I got a serious boost in my lighting when I cleaned off the outside of my bulbs and lights.  The reduction in dust really showed.</p><p>Lawrence</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: 8iowa</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22409</link> <dc:creator>8iowa</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 26 Dec 2011 01:22:37 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22409</guid> <description><![CDATA[First of all I wish to tell you that I enjoyed our chat outside the classroom at the Last WIA. I&#039;m looking forward to seeing you back in 2012.When I built my  Upper Peninsula &quot;Workshop in the Woods&quot; I placed both incandescent and electronic ballast T-8 fixtures on the ceiling. This elevates the CRI in the shop, and frankly I feel that this is the most important index for woodworking shops, especially if colors of finishes are to be seen true.I also followed Henry Ford&#039;s advice, &quot;You can paint your shop any color as long as it&#039;s white&quot;. (At least I think he said something like this) Regardless, white walls and ceiling really help to reflect light and reduce shadows.Ralph]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First of all I wish to tell you that I enjoyed our chat outside the classroom at the Last WIA. I&#8217;m looking forward to seeing you back in 2012.</p><p>When I built my  Upper Peninsula &#8220;Workshop in the Woods&#8221; I placed both incandescent and electronic ballast T-8 fixtures on the ceiling. This elevates the CRI in the shop, and frankly I feel that this is the most important index for woodworking shops, especially if colors of finishes are to be seen true.</p><p>I also followed Henry Ford&#8217;s advice, &#8220;You can paint your shop any color as long as it&#8217;s white&#8221;. (At least I think he said something like this) Regardless, white walls and ceiling really help to reflect light and reduce shadows.</p><p>Ralph</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Richard Dawson</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22398</link> <dc:creator>Richard Dawson</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 23 Dec 2011 17:59:13 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22398</guid> <description><![CDATA[45 deg C ambient temperature?  That seems a bit warm, unless you are in Saudi Arabia.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>45 deg C ambient temperature?  That seems a bit warm, unless you are in Saudi Arabia.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: adrian</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22390</link> <dc:creator>adrian</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:10:03 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22390</guid> <description><![CDATA[Fluorescent lighting is complex, and the different products can vary in a variety of ways.  Some fluorescent lights take a long time to reach full intensity after turn-on.  Others don&#039;t.  It depends on the design.Regarding output, I&#039;m not aware of a problem with the lumen outputs marked on CFL bulbs, though it doesn&#039;t address dimming over time.  But the so-called equivalencies are bunk.  A standard single life 100W bulb generates 1700 lumens and yet you&#039;ll see CFLs marked as &quot;100 W equivalent&quot; that only produce 1500 lumens, or less.  If you compare lumen output directly and ignore any alleged wattage equivalency you should be able to get it right.msiemsen:
Incandescent lights generate heat at 100% efficiency, if you measure efficiency by the conversion of electric energy to heat.  This is a really bad way to use electricity, because that electricity was generated from some other energy source and then sent through lossy wires at probably something like 20% efficiency.  A gas furnace can be 95% efficient.  A heat pump is much more than 100% efficient (if you measure efficiency by the energy consumed divided by the energy added to the house). If you are in fact heating your house with resistive electric heat, like a giant light bulb, you should give some serious thought to switching.I have no connection to GE, but I&#039;ve found their catalogs informative.  Below are links to their compact fluorescent catalog and their linear fluorescent catalog:http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdfhttp://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdfIf you look at the lumen numbers, you&#039;ll note that they give an &quot;initial&quot; lumen value and a &quot;mean&quot; lumen value.  The &quot;mean&quot; value is labeled as the light output at 40% of bulb life.  For a randomly chosen CFL I observed an initial lumens output of 1350 and a mean output of 1135.  What does that mean?  It means that when the bulb is 40% through it&#039;s life it&#039;s only producing 84% of the light it produced initially.  And this will presumably decrease *roughly* the same amount again going down to the end of life, meaning  something like 68% of full output at that point.  This is quite a significant change, and one that could be troubling even to young eyes.If you take a look at a 4 ft long T8 bulb, the standard nominal 32 watt fluorescent you&#039;ll notice that the lumen output only falls to 94% for the mean output.  So there&#039;s another reason beyond simple efficiency to really use the linear fluorescent fixtures if you can rather than using CFLs.I&#039;m hoping for good, dimmable, LED lighting.  But it doesn&#039;t seem to be here yet.  I&#039;m curious, though, about color rendering.  How can LEDs produce a good CRI without using the same phosphors as the fluorescent lamps?  I thought that white LEDs worked essentially the same way, with a high frequency output being modified by phosphors.  In fact, I heard that at least in some cases the LED might last 100,000 hours but the phosphor coating would only last 10,000 so the light wouldn&#039;t maintain it&#039;s color over time.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fluorescent lighting is complex, and the different products can vary in a variety of ways.  Some fluorescent lights take a long time to reach full intensity after turn-on.  Others don&#8217;t.  It depends on the design.</p><p>Regarding output, I&#8217;m not aware of a problem with the lumen outputs marked on CFL bulbs, though it doesn&#8217;t address dimming over time.  But the so-called equivalencies are bunk.  A standard single life 100W bulb generates 1700 lumens and yet you&#8217;ll see CFLs marked as &#8220;100 W equivalent&#8221; that only produce 1500 lumens, or less.  If you compare lumen output directly and ignore any alleged wattage equivalency you should be able to get it right.</p><p>msiemsen:<br
/> Incandescent lights generate heat at 100% efficiency, if you measure efficiency by the conversion of electric energy to heat.  This is a really bad way to use electricity, because that electricity was generated from some other energy source and then sent through lossy wires at probably something like 20% efficiency.  A gas furnace can be 95% efficient.  A heat pump is much more than 100% efficient (if you measure efficiency by the energy consumed divided by the energy added to the house). If you are in fact heating your house with resistive electric heat, like a giant light bulb, you should give some serious thought to switching.</p><p>I have no connection to GE, but I&#8217;ve found their catalogs informative.  Below are links to their compact fluorescent catalog and their linear fluorescent catalog:</p><p><a
href="http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdf</a></p><p><a
href="http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/catalogs/downloads/Lighting_and_Ballasts_Section_5_Compact_Fluorescent_Lamps.pdf</a></p><p>If you look at the lumen numbers, you&#8217;ll note that they give an &#8220;initial&#8221; lumen value and a &#8220;mean&#8221; lumen value.  The &#8220;mean&#8221; value is labeled as the light output at 40% of bulb life.  For a randomly chosen CFL I observed an initial lumens output of 1350 and a mean output of 1135.  What does that mean?  It means that when the bulb is 40% through it&#8217;s life it&#8217;s only producing 84% of the light it produced initially.  And this will presumably decrease *roughly* the same amount again going down to the end of life, meaning  something like 68% of full output at that point.  This is quite a significant change, and one that could be troubling even to young eyes.</p><p>If you take a look at a 4 ft long T8 bulb, the standard nominal 32 watt fluorescent you&#8217;ll notice that the lumen output only falls to 94% for the mean output.  So there&#8217;s another reason beyond simple efficiency to really use the linear fluorescent fixtures if you can rather than using CFLs.</p><p>I&#8217;m hoping for good, dimmable, LED lighting.  But it doesn&#8217;t seem to be here yet.  I&#8217;m curious, though, about color rendering.  How can LEDs produce a good CRI without using the same phosphors as the fluorescent lamps?  I thought that white LEDs worked essentially the same way, with a high frequency output being modified by phosphors.  In fact, I heard that at least in some cases the LED might last 100,000 hours but the phosphor coating would only last 10,000 so the light wouldn&#8217;t maintain it&#8217;s color over time.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: karincorbin</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22378</link> <dc:creator>karincorbin</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 01:31:23 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22378</guid> <description><![CDATA[At 60 years of age a person receives only 40 percent of the light inside the eye that they did at age 20.Add more lights to your workshop.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At 60 years of age a person receives only 40 percent of the light inside the eye that they did at age 20.</p><p>Add more lights to your workshop.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: karincorbin</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22376</link> <dc:creator>karincorbin</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 01:20:34 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22376</guid> <description><![CDATA[At 60 years of age a person receives only 40 percent of the light inside the eye that they did at age 20.So year by year things will indeed be dimmer in your workshop even if you change the bulbs every couple of years.I am in love with the new fluorescent, electronic ballast 4 foot long tubes. I have changed my whole workshop out to 5000K fluorescent light bulbs and tubes.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At 60 years of age a person receives only 40 percent of the light inside the eye that they did at age 20.</p><p>So year by year things will indeed be dimmer in your workshop even if you change the bulbs every couple of years.</p><p>I am in love with the new fluorescent, electronic ballast 4 foot long tubes. I have changed my whole workshop out to 5000K fluorescent light bulbs and tubes.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Tony</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22374</link> <dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 21 Dec 2011 21:20:08 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22374</guid> <description><![CDATA[I&#039;ve got old eyes too.  I think they&#039;re overly optimistic when they show lumens for the CFL&#039;s.  I&#039;ve had better luck going up one when I replace an incandescent - I use a &quot;75 watt equivalent&quot; CFL to replace a 60 Watt incandescent.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve got old eyes too.  I think they&#8217;re overly optimistic when they show lumens for the CFL&#8217;s.  I&#8217;ve had better luck going up one when I replace an incandescent &#8211; I use a &#8220;75 watt equivalent&#8221; CFL to replace a 60 Watt incandescent.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Gary Roberts</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22372</link> <dc:creator>Gary Roberts</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 21 Dec 2011 20:09:15 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22372</guid> <description><![CDATA[Shhhhhh It&#039;s a secret! CFL&#039;s have little itty bitty ballasts just like big ones do. Ballasts slowly fail over time and as they do, the lamp dims. Sometimes in cheapo bulbs the phosphor coating starts to fail too. Short term tests aside, it&#039;s the long term results that matter. While short term high use testing is useful, it&#039;s only when long term data is collected on the bulb, the bulb chemistry and the ballast that you know what is happening.It&#039;s a downside to CFL bulbs that you can&#039;t replace the ballast. I use them throughout the house and basement but I replace them every two years. For spot lighting I stick to old fashioned carbon arc bulbs. Just kidding. GE daylight.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Shhhhhh It&#8217;s a secret! CFL&#8217;s have little itty bitty ballasts just like big ones do. Ballasts slowly fail over time and as they do, the lamp dims. Sometimes in cheapo bulbs the phosphor coating starts to fail too. Short term tests aside, it&#8217;s the long term results that matter. While short term high use testing is useful, it&#8217;s only when long term data is collected on the bulb, the bulb chemistry and the ballast that you know what is happening.</p><p>It&#8217;s a downside to CFL bulbs that you can&#8217;t replace the ballast. I use them throughout the house and basement but I replace them every two years. For spot lighting I stick to old fashioned carbon arc bulbs. Just kidding. GE daylight.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Niels</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/old-eyes-or-bad-bulbs/comment-page-1#comment-22371</link> <dc:creator>Niels</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 21 Dec 2011 19:24:11 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=114422#comment-22371</guid> <description><![CDATA[Ditto. Full-Spectrum bulbs were the very first thing I installed in  my studio three years ago and they are still going strong. I have incandescent daylight bulbs in on the two lamps near my bench as well.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ditto. Full-Spectrum bulbs were the very first thing I installed in  my studio three years ago and they are still going strong. I have incandescent daylight bulbs in on the two lamps near my bench as well.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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