Chris Schwarz's Blog

Need a Moxon Double-screw Vise?

One of the most-popular projects I made last year was the Moxon Double-screw Vise from the December 2010 issue. It’s popularity was eclipsed only by the Handplane Birdhouse in the August 2010 issue. One guy built 12 of them.

have received some complaints about the Moxon Double-screw. Not about
how it works – I think it’s one of the most useful jigs I’ve built.
Instead, people have been griping about having to buy the wood-threading
kit to make the screws and tap the holes.

I bought mine from Highland Hardware. It was $47.99 and works quite well, though some people have reported there are some defective ones floating around out there.

in my book, $47.99 plus some 8/4 poplar or maple is a small price to
pay for the vise. But readers have disagreed and asked me where they can
buy the screws so they don’t have to buy the threading kit.

you have some options. Change the hardware – some people have been
using clamps, veneer press screws or carriage bolts and wingnuts.

Or you can buy one from woodworker Bill Rittner, who makes fantastic replacement totes for Stanley planes. Rittner is selling smaller-scale Moxon Double-screw Vises on eBay for $149, or you can contact him via e-mail at
Here are the specs: The jaws are 6-1/2″ high. The vise will hold
12-1/8″ between the screws and will secure 3-1/2″-thick stock.

So now you have one more option.

— Christopher Schwarz

25 thoughts on “Need a Moxon Double-screw Vise?

  1. Chris K

    I made my vise too, I undersized my first screws ~1.45", while they worked there was too much slop in the front jaw. So I remade them and got them about .010 under the 1.5" That was much better. Some squeaking with them that some wax took care of. I had some 8/4 poplar in the rack that was only 4.5" wide so I used that. Here is a shot

    I like the octagon handles…

  2. Al Limiero

    I built the twin screw vise.
    I used a Woodcraft Screw box and the metal tap that goes with the box.
    Problems I had were as follows:
    I turned the screw blanks a bit oversize and the diameter was not even along the lenght of the screw (lack of good turning skills). I had to adjust the diameter after I cut the threads, a bit tricky so you don’t destroy the threads.
    I had to adjust the cutter in the screw box to cut a lot deeper than the factory setting.
    I added a garter, and it works well.
    Inserting the screws into the vise they seem to be very loose and sloppy, but when I tighten down on a piece of wood, the loosness seems to disappear and the vise holds the workpiece very well.
    Cutting the threads with the metal tap worked well when a lot of lubricant is used (Linseed oil and/or wax).
    The tap is very hard to turn and should be done very slowly.
    Roy Underhill describes screw cutting and nut making without the benefit of a metal tap in one of his books.
    He also descrines how to forge your own metal tap.
    I can get the title of the book if anyone is interested.
    He also did one of his "Wood Wright Shop" video series on Public TV.
    There is a website that has all the programs in the series can be viewed.
    This was a good project, I love my vise!


    You might consider running your tap through your die to make sure they have matching pitches. Any SLIGHT irregularities can be smoothed out this way. Remove the cutting blade from the die first.

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