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> <channel><title>Comments on: Milk Paint Primer – No Cause for Panic</title> <atom:link href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first</link> <description>Woodworking advice, woodworking plans, woodworking projects and woodworking blogs</description> <lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 03:30:45 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator> <item><title>By: PWFan</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-73804</link> <dc:creator>PWFan</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 20:54:07 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-73804</guid> <description><![CDATA[Thanks for the speedy replies. Good point about a scratched finish being a broken barrier, though that&#039;s less likely if the chest is on casters, which mine has been since I installed the bottom. (4 in. polyurethane casters because of the water as well as bumpy concrete.)  I&#039;ll re-read the section in Flexner&#039;s book.  I may be worrying too much -- I just thought painting or top-coating the bottom now might be easier to do while I&#039;m painting the rest and have everything set out.  (GF Milk paint, still testing top coats)]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the speedy replies. Good point about a scratched finish being a broken barrier, though that&#8217;s less likely if the chest is on casters, which mine has been since I installed the bottom. (4 in. polyurethane casters because of the water as well as bumpy concrete.)  I&#8217;ll re-read the section in Flexner&#8217;s book.  I may be worrying too much &#8212; I just thought painting or top-coating the bottom now might be easier to do while I&#8217;m painting the rest and have everything set out.  (GF Milk paint, still testing top coats)</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Megan Fitzpatrick</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-73801</link> <dc:creator>Megan Fitzpatrick</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 19:21:14 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-73801</guid> <description><![CDATA[Nope. The bottom is naked – that&#039;s the beauty of the nailed-on bottom and rot strips; they&#039;re easily replaced if they rot (but you might want to use white oak or some other rot-resistant species because you expect the problem).However, because you get standing water (that sounds a lot like my basement, by the way), consider adding casters, perhaps with rubber wheels, to raise the wood entirely off the floor. Or make rot strips with beveled edges that are thick enough to lift the bottom out of the danger zone. Chris wrote about this here: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/how-to-save-your-tool-chest-and-your-tools-from-waterI don&#039;t think any finish is going to provide long-term protection against water – once you get one tiny scratch in that finish, the moisture will be through the barrier. But if you feel you have to finish the bottom, Bob Flexner writes that paint is the most effective coating to combat the elements (and oil-based wears better, according to his book &quot;Understanding Wood Finishing&quot;). The best clear finish for this purpose would be a marine varnish.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nope. The bottom is naked – that&#8217;s the beauty of the nailed-on bottom and rot strips; they&#8217;re easily replaced if they rot (but you might want to use white oak or some other rot-resistant species because you expect the problem).</p><p>However, because you get standing water (that sounds a lot like my basement, by the way), consider adding casters, perhaps with rubber wheels, to raise the wood entirely off the floor. Or make rot strips with beveled edges that are thick enough to lift the bottom out of the danger zone. Chris wrote about this here: <a
href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/how-to-save-your-tool-chest-and-your-tools-from-water" rel="nofollow">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/how-to-save-your-tool-chest-and-your-tools-from-water</a></p><p>I don&#8217;t think any finish is going to provide long-term protection against water – once you get one tiny scratch in that finish, the moisture will be through the barrier. But if you feel you have to finish the bottom, Bob Flexner writes that paint is the most effective coating to combat the elements (and oil-based wears better, according to his book &#8220;Understanding Wood Finishing&#8221;). The best clear finish for this purpose would be a marine varnish.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: PWFan</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-73800</link> <dc:creator>PWFan</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 18:02:58 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-73800</guid> <description><![CDATA[Did you paint and topcoat the bottom of the chest as well?  I can&#039;t find anything on finishing underneath chest pieces of any kind.My chest is in an unfinished (rented) basement shop with unsealed concrete floor that gets some very shallow puddles if we get a lot of rain.  The floor&#039;s dry in a day or so, but since it&#039;s also cool, I worry about condensation and encouraging mildew underneath something that&#039;s close to the floor, even on something like cypress that&#039;s naturally resistant.  (Tung oil?  Hoping for something that won&#039;t require taking the chest outside to apply and maintain, but I&#039;ll do it if I have to.)]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Did you paint and topcoat the bottom of the chest as well?  I can&#8217;t find anything on finishing underneath chest pieces of any kind.</p><p>My chest is in an unfinished (rented) basement shop with unsealed concrete floor that gets some very shallow puddles if we get a lot of rain.  The floor&#8217;s dry in a day or so, but since it&#8217;s also cool, I worry about condensation and encouraging mildew underneath something that&#8217;s close to the floor, even on something like cypress that&#8217;s naturally resistant.  (Tung oil?  Hoping for something that won&#8217;t require taking the chest outside to apply and maintain, but I&#8217;ll do it if I have to.)</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Megan Fitzpatrick</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-73796</link> <dc:creator>Megan Fitzpatrick</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 15:47:56 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-73796</guid> <description><![CDATA[Ended up with  topcoat of dull lacquer (sprayed) - retained the chalky look, but a smoother feel]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ended up with  topcoat of dull lacquer (sprayed) &#8211; retained the chalky look, but a smoother feel</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: PWFan</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-73795</link> <dc:creator>PWFan</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 15:13:55 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-73795</guid> <description><![CDATA[What did you decide to topcoat with?  Brand and sheen?]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What did you decide to topcoat with?  Brand and sheen?</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: chrismobley</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-72457</link> <dc:creator>chrismobley</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 05 Feb 2013 15:43:16 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-72457</guid> <description><![CDATA[Great work, Thank you Megan.
Chris Mobley
www.cmobleydesigns.com]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great work, Thank you Megan.<br
/> Chris Mobley<br
/> <a
href="http://www.cmobleydesigns.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.cmobleydesigns.com</a></p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: woodctr51</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-71980</link> <dc:creator>woodctr51</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:30:42 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-71980</guid> <description><![CDATA[Yes, Megan, I thought it looked pretty good with only one coat, and I don&#039;t even drink anymore (my choice).  But the thought of reveling in the aura of a superior paint job while enjoying a quality bourbon poured over ice sounds really interesting.  I may need to give it a try, after shutting down all tools, of course.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, Megan, I thought it looked pretty good with only one coat, and I don&#8217;t even drink anymore (my choice).  But the thought of reveling in the aura of a superior paint job while enjoying a quality bourbon poured over ice sounds really interesting.  I may need to give it a try, after shutting down all tools, of course.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: nstahlmann</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-71971</link> <dc:creator>nstahlmann</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 15 Jan 2013 22:37:43 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-71971</guid> <description><![CDATA[I was and idiot and painted my chest with latex based on another idiots recommendation...I think I read it in a book or something.  Milk paint is much easier to use, don&#039;t mix it too thin!  I too have used shellac over milk paint and love it.  Also Curtis Buchanan has an excellent series of videos on making a comb back chair in which he explains how to mix and apply milk paint.  I believe the paint mixing happens on video 46.  http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/videos.html]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was and idiot and painted my chest with latex based on another idiots recommendation&#8230;I think I read it in a book or something.  Milk paint is much easier to use, don&#8217;t mix it too thin!  I too have used shellac over milk paint and love it.  Also Curtis Buchanan has an excellent series of videos on making a comb back chair in which he explains how to mix and apply milk paint.  I believe the paint mixing happens on video 46. <a
href="http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/videos.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/videos.html</a></p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: hughmac13</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-71961</link> <dc:creator>hughmac13</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 15 Jan 2013 17:53:58 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-71961</guid> <description><![CDATA[Imagine, if you will, spending somewhere in the neighborhood of 200-300 hours working on a large built-in breakfront project with inset glass-front doors, beaded faceframes, and dovetailed drawers, that not only looks halfway decent, but sensational, and is destined to satisfy a client, bolster your reputation, and to help earn you enough money to shelter and feed yourself.Then, imagine wetting your brush with your carefully chosen and carefully mixed milk paint--for you are mixing two or three milk-paint colors to achieve a certain color you have chosen after a few days of consideration, because you don&#039;t have time to dither--then drawing the brush across your freshly planed surfaces only to think, “Wow, that looks pretty wack.&quot;]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Imagine, if you will, spending somewhere in the neighborhood of 200-300 hours working on a large built-in breakfront project with inset glass-front doors, beaded faceframes, and dovetailed drawers, that not only looks halfway decent, but sensational, and is destined to satisfy a client, bolster your reputation, and to help earn you enough money to shelter and feed yourself.</p><p>Then, imagine wetting your brush with your carefully chosen and carefully mixed milk paint&#8211;for you are mixing two or three milk-paint colors to achieve a certain color you have chosen after a few days of consideration, because you don&#8217;t have time to dither&#8211;then drawing the brush across your freshly planed surfaces only to think, “Wow, that looks pretty wack.&#8221;</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: MarkHulette</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/dont-panic-milk-paint-is-supposed-to-look-like-crap-at-first/comment-page-1#comment-71958</link> <dc:creator>MarkHulette</dc:creator> <pubDate>Tue, 15 Jan 2013 17:14:20 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/?p=257005#comment-71958</guid> <description><![CDATA[I took the sackback class @ the Windsor Institute and wanted to get the authentic look of a Windsor. So glad Mike gives out info on Milk Paint with the class and what to expect... that first coat looked like a goat&#039;s hairball. Rough. As others have added, additional coats make a HUGE difference. Just stay with it. I believe he recommended danish oil but I don&#039;t have his instructions at hand.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I took the sackback class @ the Windsor Institute and wanted to get the authentic look of a Windsor. So glad Mike gives out info on Milk Paint with the class and what to expect&#8230; that first coat looked like a goat&#8217;s hairball. Rough. As others have added, additional coats make a HUGE difference. Just stay with it. I believe he recommended danish oil but I don&#8217;t have his instructions at hand.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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