When mortising I found it difficult to remove waste left at the bottom of the mortise by my hollow-chisel mortising bit. Prying it out with a bench chisel often damaged the shoulder of the mortise and was not kind to the cutting edge of the chisel. I needed a tool with a right-angle cutting edge … Read more
Tag Archives: Tricks of the Trade
I recently converted a common #220 Stanley block plane into an effective rabbet plane. I think a block plane’s comfort, low profile and blade angle can provide precision for paring tenons, rabbets and bevels of raised panels (and it’s significantly cheaper than the typical rabbet plane). To begin, drill a 5⁄16″ hole through the side … Read more
I was intrigued with Nick Engler’s Ingenious Jigs article from December 2001 that showed you how to make a jig for cutting perfect dados in the sides of case pieces. After my last project, where the routing was the most repetitious and boring part of the piece, I thought there should be an easier way. … Read more
Many years ago my carpenter square mysteriously disappeared at the start of my basement finishing project. So I started using a butt hinge to mark lumber. It worked better than I had hoped. My carpenter square is still hiding from me, but I still use a 31⁄2″ x 31⁄2″ full-mortise butt hinge for transferring my … Read more
Chiseling and paring away the waste between dovetail pins can be largely eliminated by using a Forstner bit to remove the waste. Set up a Forstner bit (the diameter equal to your drawer side thickness) in your drill press and set the depth stop to just shy of the bottom layout line. Drill into the … Read more
Most shops have two types of router bits – dull and sharp ones. It’s easy to tell the difference because the sharp bits ease through the wood while the dull bits labor. Sometimes a good cleaning is all the bit needs. Any good blade solvent will rid bits of pitch and resin. Once the bit … Read more
Edited by Kari Hultman
From the February 2012 issue #195.
Buy the issue now.
Three main design features enable it to work well. The runners are made of hard maple that resists wear and tear. The sliding mechanism is a dovetail that allows the roller to move closer to the table for short pieces and farther from the table for longer boards. The roller can be made level with the top of the table saw because of an elongated hole for the bolt that connects the roller assembly to the extension assembly.
VIDEO: We film videos of many Tricks of the Trade in use in our shop, and post them online,
free. Visit popularwoodworking.com/video to watch.
WEB SITE: Visit the new Tricks of the Trade page online.
BLOG: Tricks editor Kari Hultman writes about woodworking on her blog, The Village Carpenter.
IN OUR STORE: “601 Woodshop Tips & Tricks,” by Graham McCulloch. Read more