This is a SketchUp model of the roorkhee chair from the October 2012 issue. View the SketchUp Model View All SketchUp Models Buy the October 2012 Issue Purchase SketchUp Learning Products from Shopwoodworking.com



This is a SketchUp model of the roorkhee chair from the October 2012 issue. View the SketchUp Model View All SketchUp Models Buy the October 2012 Issue Purchase SketchUp Learning Products from Shopwoodworking.com

This is a SketchUp model of Gizmozilla from the October 2012 issue. View the SketchUp Model View All SketchUp Models Buy the October 2012 Issue Purchase SketchUp Learning Products from Shopwoodworking.com

This is a SketchUp model of the cover project from the October 2012 issue View the SketchUp Model View All SketchUp Models Buy the October 2012 Issue Purchase SketchUp Learning Products from Shopwoodworking.com

This is a model of the I Can Do That “Shaker Carry Box” from the October 2012 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. View the Google SketchUp Model for version one (above), and version two of this project. View all of the Woodworking SketchUp Models. Purchase Sketchup products from Shop Woodworking.

A perfect union between an improved router fixture and a Moxon-style vise.
By Kenneth Speed
Pages 40-43
This fixture, which I’ve christened “Gizmozilla,” grew out of my general dissatisfaction with the methods available to small shops to cut mortises. At one time I used a small hollow-chisel mortiser but I never found the results satisfactory. I tried an open-sided box jig for router mortising, but by the time I had everything in position and clamped I was completely out of patience with the whole procedure. Finally, I resorted to drilling out mortises on my drill press and doing the final chopping out by hand. While I was generally happy with the resulting mortises, the process was far too slow.
Then I happened on an article in an old woodworking magazine that described a basic router mortising fixture. It was a wooden beam with an attached channel for the router edge guide; it used Jorgensen hold-down clamps to secure the workpiece. The author nailed stops to the beam to limit router travel. While the basic idea was sound, it seemed less than fully developed. Nailing stops to something I’d just worked hard to make smooth and square seemed a little crazy, so I added T-track and moveable stops.
I also added wooden clamping cauls of various lengths outfitted with steel bars and rare earth magnets to hold them to the clamps while allowing for some adjustment. The cauls and Gizmozilla’s 4′ length adds to its flexibility.
Video: Find out where the glue goes inside a mortise-and-tenon joint.
To Buy: “Getting Started with Routers” DVD.
Plan: Download a SketchUp model of Gizmozilla.
In Our Store: “55 Best Shop-Made Jigs” CD. Read more

Learn how to choose and use these versatile shaping tools.
By James Mursell
Pages 50-53
As a Windsor chairmaker and spokeshave maker, I use a spokeshave more than any other tool. I have three: two straight shaves (large and small) and, for hollowing wood, the curved specialty shave called a travisher.
My introduction to spokeshaves came at school where we had traditional wooden shaves with the blades held in place by friction. When they were sharp and set correctly they were great, but because they were old and well-used, the tangs often slipped in the body. That resulted in a sometimes unexpectedly thicker or finer shaving – not an endearing feature.
I’ve spoken with many people at woodworking shows, and I am amazed by how many still have their grandfathers’ spokeshaves, but rarely use them because of the same problems I suffered during my training. This is a shame because spokeshaves are remarkably versatile tools for shaping wood.
Article: Read Christopher Schwarz’s article on “Metal-bodied Spokeshaves.”
Web site: Visit James Mursell’s web site to find out about his spokeshaves and other tools, and details about his chairs and classes.
Tool: Find out more about the Lie-Nielsen Boggs spokeshave.
Book: Get James Mursell’s book, “Windsor Chairmaking.”
In Our Store: “Woodworking in Action” Volume 2, Volume 4 and Volume 6 feature Windsor chairmaker David Wright. Read more

By Bill Wells
Page 12
I have long used my car’s scissor jack for house and shop projects including lifting a settled deck and leveling workbenches. And when I needed to install a new set of cabinets in my shop, I realized that a pair of these jacks would be perfect for positioning and leveling them.
I picked up a second scissor jack and clamped both to a scrap piece of 3⁄4″ stock to provide stability. I also blocked them up so the scissor extension was sufficient to lift the cabinets into position. The arrangement at left shows the jacks on my workbench, securely holding the cabinets. I can easily raise and level the cabinets with just a few turns on the jacks. I now use these whenever I install cabinets.
The benefit of a scissor jack is that it is strong, lifts smoothly and can be precisely adjusted. And you won’t strain your back hefting heavy cabinets. You can pick up a used jack or two at an auto salvage yard for a very reasonable price.
Tricks online: We post tricks from the past and film videos of some Tricks of the Trade in use in our shop. They’re available online, free. Visit popularwoodworking.com/tricks to read and watch.