The language surrounding so called oilstones is very misleading. First off, there’s no such thing as an “oilstone.” Long ago, these abrasive stones were simply called whetstones. “Whetting” was the period word for “sharpening” and it had nothing to do with applying liquid to a rock. Nor is oil required for their use. All “oilstones” … Read more
Part 2: Test often to avoid the need to grind.
By Adam Cherubini
Pages: 20-21
From the November 2011 issue #193
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To determine if the edges are sharp on my blades, I perform two tests (depending on the tool) using scrap paper. I first draw the blade across the edge of a piece of paper, listening for the growl of a ragged edge. The blade should be able to slice the paper cleanly. You’ll be able to hear when the edge of your tool is smooth. Edges that pass this test are good enough for work in hatchets, drawknives, spokeshaves and other tools that are drawn through wood. For chisels and plane irons, however, I perform a second test. If my chisel or plane blade passes my first test, I then push the blade straight down onto the edge
of the paper. A sharp tool will easily cut through an entire sheet.
ARTICLE: Read the first part of Adam’s article on sharpening from our October 2011 issue.
ARTICLE: “What are Oilstones?” Find out in Adam’s online article.
BLOG: Visit the Colonial Williamsburg joiners’ blog on period work.
IN OUR STORE: Get “The Arts & Mysteries of Hand Tools” on CD.
Read more
Whether or not you’re able to attend the Woodworking in America Conference (Sept. 30-Oct. 2 in Greater Cincinnati), you can still learn top-notch woodworking techniques from our expert speakers. Read more
Discover how to make furniture legs in myriad styles – from the classic cabriole leg (with and without a ball & claw foot!) to turned legs on the lathe to tapered legs by hand or by power. Read more
Part 1: No flat back.
By Adam Cherubini
Pages: 24-25
From the October 2011 issue #192
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I’ve tried most sharpening systems. I started with sandpaper and glass because it was cost-effective. It’s still tough to beat. You don’t have to worry about maintenance. If the paper rips or clogs, you throw it away. The surface you are working on is always flat. But at finer grits, the paper tears easily. I switched to Mylar-backed abrasives, and later the adhesive-backed films. These helped, but I was still unsatisfied.
BLOG: Read Adam’s Arts & Mysteries blog on our web site.
IN OUR STORE: “The Arts & Mysteries of Hand Tools” on CD.
From the October 2011 issue #192
Buy this issue now
Read more
I would be flat-out lying to you if I said we planned out Woodworking in America for you, our beloved readers. That’s crap. The truth is that we plan out Woodworking in America for us, the staff of the magazine. We sit around our conference table and wonder: Who would we like to meet? What … Read more
There have been a couple interesting threads on the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM) forum I’d like to make you aware of in case you missed them: On drawer construction: On drawer integration: I think construction details and their variation is particularly interesting. You can easily see how and why our woodworking ancestors … Read more
