Build Furniture Without a Shop

So I recommend you do two things. First, before you go shopping, visit toolseeker.com and browse around so you can see what brands and models are out there. Toolseeker.com also will help you figure out what to expect as far as price. Second, when you go shopping, seek out the brand-name tools, but choose a brand’s stripped-down version of the tool.

Here’s an example: Let’s say you want to buy a random-orbit sander, and you like the Porter-Cable brand. The company offers the 343 model for $69 and the 344 for $79. The more expensive model has variable speed. And while variable speed might sound helpful, it’s not useful in a sander, really. Skip it and spend the $10 on wood, glue or finish.

This philosophy extends to blades, bits and sandpaper. Buy brand names. Nothing is more expensive than cheap sandpaper, bargain blades or no-name drill bits. But don’t buy the fancy professional accessories with plastic cases and flashy graphics. Flashy graphics are supposed to impress the guys on the job site. At home you’ll impress only the family dog.

Once you get your tools home, treat them like shards of the true cross. Never ever let your tools rust. Rust spreads like a cancer in ferrous materials (iron and steel) and can make your measuring and cutting tools difficult to use. There are a lot of products out there to prevent and remove rust, but the best thing going cannot be found on the shelf: a small can of vigilance.

When you are done with a tool, wipe down the metal surfaces – especially the cutting surface – with a rag that has been soaked with WD-40. Always keep the rag nearby (mine is seven years old) and renew it with a squirt of WD-40 when it gets dry. Wiping your tool down does two things: First, it removes dust from the tool. Dust can carry salt. Salt attracts water. The combination of salt and moisture will start breaking down your iron and steel tools.

Second, the WD-40 helps prevent rust by forming a thin protective barrier, albeit one that must be constantly renewed to be effective. Other people will disparage WD-40 (I once did). Ignore them.

Yup, from the
home center. These Egg Crate Shelves (from the August 2006 issue) were built with materials and tools from the home center in a couple afternoons.

Buying Materials
Another key component to the “I Can Do That” philosophy is that all the materials come from a home center. You don’t have to buy your materials there, but you also don’t have to trek out to some exotic hardwood supplier, learn the foreign language of lumber and spend a ridiculous sum on wood for a purpleheart planter box.

The truth is, you can build a lot of nice things with the run-of-the-mill (literally) lumber and plywood from a home center. You just have to learn how to shop for it.

Let’s talk about home-center wood. In general, you are going to find lots of construction lumber – white pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and perhaps hemlock. This is sold in thicknesses best for construction 2x4s, 2x6s, 2x8s and so on. There are times you are going to want to pick through this stuff, but when you do, you need to know that it is usually too wet to be used immediately for furniture. If you buy construction lumber, take it home, crosscut it to rough length and let it dry out for a couple weekends before you dive in. You’ll be glad you did.

In addition to construction lumber, you’ll find hardwoods and softwoods that are thinner and designed to be used for trimwork in a house and even furniture. This stuff has been planed to 3/4″ thick and is in convenient furniture-sized hunks. But you need to be quite wary of it. Why?

Well, first off, this stuff is far more expensive than wood will be at an old-fashioned lumberyard – convenience costs, I tell you. And though it’s quite expensive, the really flat and clear boards are just as overpriced as the warped, knotty and split ones.

So sort though the entire pile of wood when looking for boards. Yes, you might get dirty looks from the employees; but if you are going to pay $30 for a pine 1×12, then by God you should get the best one in the store. When you are done, re-assemble the store’s wood pile so it’s better than you found it.

What sort of furniture woods are you going to find at the home center? For the most part, lots of pine, red oak, poplar, and sometimes maple and aspen. You can build a lot of nice stuff using this wood, especially if you are willing to paint your projects (we’ll talk about finishing next).

Also, don’t forget to visit the moulding section of the home center. You can get away with a lot of store-bought moulding when building furniture – you don’t have to have a router. And the nice thing is that most stores sell the moulding by the linear foot, so you can cut what you need right there (and get some practice with a handsaw.)

As far as fasteners go, let me put one little bug in your ear. The worst thing you can do is to buy screws and other fasteners in those little boxes and plastic bags. You know, the ones that have five wood screws in them. Those are, for the most part, made from soft metal and cost too much. If I have to buy screws at a home center, I’ll buy a box of 100 or more that are intended for home builders. Heck, I’d buy drywall screws before I’d buy the little plastic baggies.

And as far as glues go, you’re in luck. Home centers have a great selection of glue. Just don’t buy the no-name stuff. It might be great. It might not. The name brands (Titebond, Probond, Gorilla) don’t cost much more.

Finishing Materials
When it comes to finishing materials you are in tremendous luck when it comes to shopping at a home center. If you know what to look for you can achieve almost any kind of finish you desire.

First, let me say a word about paint. Don’t let other magazines or woodworkers bully you out of using paint. A lot of excellent and well-made furniture is painted (for example, virtually every Windsor chair ever made). Personally, I love paint on certain pieces. It allows the graphic lines of a project to really stand out. Paint allows you to easily get the color exactly like you want it. And it’s a finish that is hard to mess up. In general, I find that latex semi-gloss paint works very well for furniture. It’s durable, doesn’t stink up the house like oil-based paint and is easy to clean up.

But what if you don’t like paint? Again, you’re in luck. Home centers carry a wide variety of stains. And here’s a trick that you don’t hear a lot: You can mix two (or three or more) stains to get the color you are looking for. Just be sure to mix oil-based stain with oil-based stain, and water-based with water-based.

And while we’re talking stains, I recommend you avoid the products that both stain and protect your project. These “one-step” products are usually just stains with a little more binder material in them. They offer little protection to your project, and I don’t think they look good, either.

Instead, you should protect your wood with some sort of film finish. In general, you are going to find three sorts of products at the home center that will do this.

There will be Watco, Danish oil and tung oil. These usually are a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish. It’s OK stuff, but you need four or five coats to build up a nice film.

You’ll find lots of polyurethane. In general, I think polyurethane is harder than necessary; plus, it doesn’t bond well to itself. So sometimes a coat can flake off. If you use polyurethane, be sure to sand the finish thoroughly between coats with #320-grit sandpaper or sanding sponges.

You’ll also find varnish or spar varnish. This is the good stuff. It’s a lot like polyurethane, except it’s a bit softer and bonds more easily to itself. Buy a can of varnish and a can of paint thinner/mineral spirits (they are the same thing). Thin your varnish with three parts varnish and one part paint thinner and you can then apply a nice thin coat with a rag. After three coats or so, you’ll build up a nice sheen. Just be sure to sand your finish between coats.

Finally, get some paste wax and some way to apply it. I like the fine synthetic steel wool, which is a gray pad. The gray pad will smooth your finish to the touch and the wax will give the whole project a nice consistent sheen.

Don’t Forget Your Workmate
The last important piece of your toolkit is a Workmate. This is a portable workbench that you will never outgrow, even if you become obsessed with workbenches, build 10 of them and write a book about it.

The Workmate is one of the greatest woodworking inventions of the 20th century. It’s a big vise, a worktable, a clamping surface, a stepstool. With a Workmate, you can work almost anywhere in the house or yard.

When you buy one, get the nicest one in the store (I know that this contradicts my earlier advice on tools). The plastic ones aren’t so nice. In fact, the best way to buy a Workmate it to pick up an old one from a garage sale. My Jimmy Carter-era one cost me $30 and even included the plastic dogs, which are great for holding panels.

Now Get to Work
Once you download the “I Can Do That” manual, buy your tools, pick out a project (we have several available for free download on our web site) and get your materials, you should dive immediately into the project. No matter how daunting the joinery journey ahead, I promise you that most of the barriers in woodworking are mental. The first step is always the hardest, and that’s true when it comes to cutting your first pocket-screw hole or sand-shading your first piece of inlay. PW‘I Can D
o That’ Tool List
The foundation of the “I Can Do That” approach is the small number of tools you need to build nice and sturdy furniture. Here’s a list of the basic kit. For details on how to purchase these tools, download our free I Can Do That Manual at popularwoodworking.com/icandothat. The manual also shows you how to use these tools for building furniture (as opposed to houses).
¦  12″ combination square
¦  16′ tape measure
¦  jigsaw
¦  10″ miter saw
¦  7 1/4″ circular saw
¦  electric drill
¦  scratch awl and brad awl
¦  bastard-cut file
¦  file card
¦  palm-grip random-orbit sander
¦  block plane
¦  combination oilstone
¦  pocket-hole jig or a biscuit joiner
¦  16 oz. hammer
¦  nail sets
¦  4-in-1 screwdriver
¦  Workmate
¦  F-style clamps