If you have any questions or comments, feel free to send an e-mail to Associate Editor Michael Rabkin. Or you can send a letter through the regular mail to Popular Woodworking, 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH 45236.

Texan Stands By His CorrosionX

I read "Stop Rust Now" with some interest. I live in Pensacola, Fla., and for several years right by the water. I can identify with your appraisal of the problem of rust in the shop and on anything made of ferrous metal.

Of all the products you tested, you missed the very best one. It is a thin molecular film blocking agent called CorrosionX produced by a company in Fort Worth, Texas. I've used this product for years. It was referred to me by a friend who's a master mechanic for off-shore helicopters, and it's the only such corrosion preventive product with a USN Military Specification (MilSpec) number.

It is amazing! In a normal shop, one application will protect bits, chisels, squares and shop tools for many months. You wipe it on and wipe it off. It will also work very well on aluminum and alloys. The thin film is not even apparent, nor will it stain or slough-off onto your work. It has some mild lubricating qualities, but that is not its function; rust and corrosion prevention is, and it does that marvelously.

I have NEVER had any tool, part or weapon so treated that ever developed any rust (unless accidentally left directly on the beach for several weeks). I would not even consider having any tool that was not treated with CorrosionX.

W.D. Jack Moran, Century, Florida

Maker of CorrosionX Replies

We greatly appreciate this ringing endorsement of our product. The downside of being a relatively small company whose technology comes from a highly specialized niche is that while on one hand NASA calls CorrosionX their "Super Sauce" and it's what the Navy uses to protect their most advanced multimillion dollar weapons systems, the average mechanic, carpenter, homeowner and hardware store is often unfamiliar with us.

CorrosionX is a unique technology. Whereas other products on the market attempt to slow the corrosion process (that's why they're only called "corrosion INHIBITORS," because that's all they can do), CorrosionX actually STOPS corrosion through Polar Bonding Technology. The product is light years ahead of the same old solvent/Teflon/wax/oil conglomerations that you usually find on retail shelves.

Thank you for feeling so strongly about CorrosionX that you are willing to bring it to the attention of your fellow woodworking enthusiasts. Word-of-mouth continues to be, by far, our best form of advertising.

J.D. Hill, Corrosion Technologies Corp., Garland, Texas

The Dean of Cutlery

"Stop Rust Now" was well-written and of great interest. I spend much spare time in my wood shop and have the very same rust problems. Your statement that "stainless steel ... is a poor cutting tool" raises my hackles because it is just too wide a brush to use without explanation. Science is changing everything - today there are many high-carbon stainless steel formulas used in knife blades that are rust-resistant and didn't exist a few years ago. Almost all modern pocket and kitchen knives are made from one of these new formulas; they sharpen beautifully and resist rust.

The rust problem will still exist on the work deck of drill presses, planers and jointers because these formulas are not practical there. But we will likely see more of these new formulas used for saws, planes and chisels in the near future. It's very easy to tell the difference between a high-carbon stainless steel item and a stainless steel item. Just try to hang it on a magnet - with the high carbon, it will barely react or have no reaction at all.

Your "Unscientific Rust Experiment" also was very interesting. I have done a similar experiment for my own use and information. One of the products that stood out was CorrosionX. I use it in the care of old carbon steel knives and all knife joints. It is said by the factory that it polar-bonds to metal and is dielectric (which means you can spray it on electrical panels, circuit boards, etc.).

Dean T. Wesner, Cathlamet, Washington

Fighting Rust in the Bayou

I live in south Louisiana and rust is a huge problem for me. I've tried almost all of the products you mentioned and some you haven't mentioned, and I was amazed that you did not try the only product that actually works for me.

If I used my jointer or table saw on a daily basis, I don't think I would have such a big problem. But I sometimes go for several weeks without starting up a new project and my workshop is in my drafty barn. Nothing is more frustrating than walking up to my jointer only to be greeted with a bed of rust.

I now use "Rust Preventer" which is put out by the makers of Navel Jelly. "Rust Preventer" leaves a heavy coat of spray on the bed that actually prevents rust from forming for months on end. What I do is remove the coating with a rag and mineral spirits right before I start up a project. It takes only a minute or so and the mineral spirits dries completely leaving nothing on the wood.

Emmett Robichaux

Danger! Danger!

Thanks for that great article on rust removal. I was inspired enough to do a little research myself and came across an article that I thought would be of interest to your readers. The writer is describing the technical dangers of using stainless steel in the electrolysis process. I know nothing on the subject but if the report is accurate, you might want to spread the word.

William F. O'Neil, Burlington, Connecticut

Tried His Own Test with Boeshield T-9

As a woodworker with 30-odd years of experience I was most interested in the article on preventing rust on tools and machinery. I, like many woodworkers, have relied on simple J&J Paste Wax as a protective coating on my equipment for many years with rather good success. But I am also always looking for more advanced methods to protect my equipment.

So after reading this article, I tried a can of the Boeshield T-9 (despite its cost of $15/can). After thoroughly cleaning my equipment I applied a coat of Boeshield T-9 as the directions indicate, wiping off the excess. After about 2-3 days I found all my equipment to have a sticky feel and a slight brownish discoloration. This was most significant on my jointer, where the stickiness was so pronounced that it was hampering the movement of boards across the face of the machine.

After another thorough cleaning I treated all my equipment with my old standby, J&J Paste Wax. I have found that it is adequate as a rust protector for my shop tools and allows wood to slide smoothly across cutting tools without contaminating the wood surface. Perhaps they should rename Boeshield T-9 to "Boesludge."

Chris Barton, Brentwood, Tennessee

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