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Thank you for your patience. I should have had the videos for the December 2007 issue and the 21st-Century Shaker Workbench article up and running last week. I am a bit late. You may have read about my “just in time” inventory system in previous posts. This time I didn’t meet the deadline. But in all fairness, we did have some technical difficulties with the video process. However, no excuses.
Here is a brief discription of the videos:
Calculating Drawer Parts
With any project that has drawers, especially graduated drawers, there should be a separate cut sheet for the drawers alone. Each drawer has five parts, so including all the parts on a project cut sheet lengthens it extensively. Maybe the list becomes confusing. In this video, I’ll show you how to calculate each drawer part based off a fitted-drawer front.
Drilling Workbench Dog Holes
While building the 21st-Century Shaker Workbench base I pondered how best to drill the dog holes. Give me enough time, and I eventually (likely) figure just about anything out. I remembered how I used a router to drill for adjustable shelf pins. Could I apply that same procedure to drill the holes for the bench?
Editor’s Choice: Hybrid Table Saw
Since the article ran in the November issue, we, the Editors of Popular Woodworking magazine, have disagreed on which hybrid table saw we would select for our home shops if we needed a hybrid saw. Care to take a guess at who selected which saw and why? You might be surprised. I was.
Finally, when I wrote the article for the Shaker Workbench, Editor Christopher Schwarz told me that I’d better get a drawing ready for the location for the dog holes since I didn’t cover that in the article. Later upon the first viewing of the video, Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick asked about the layout as well. So, I ventured into Google SketchUp and built the workbench top in cyberspace, saved it as a PDF and have it available for download. Click here: Workbench Top.pdf (14.76 KB)
If I missed anything or if you would like additional information on the Workbench send me a comment. I’ll try to get the videos for the next issue up on time.
Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.
![Bringing the 1955 Crescent Band Saw to Life! [Video]](http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/bfi_thumb/dummy-transparent-olcy6s63it1p9yp7uhusjas7c8kahafrhg9su7q9i0.png)
I think Samson is right. Some hardwood would be my choice, something like the maple you put in your top, or if it were me, ash for both the top and the liners.
I’ve found wood (maple) to be the best bet. If this were my bench, I’d re-mount the front vice to allow for replaceable wooden jaw liners. The re-mount would involve lowing the entire vice another inch with a spacer block and further recessing the rear jaw into the top so as to permit a wood rear jaw liner that is in the same plane as the front edge. The lowering allows wood liners that cover not just the faces of the jaws, but the top edge of the vise jaws as well. While my front vise is not in close up in this picture, I think you can make out enough that it might help explain what I’m trying to say:
Best Regards.
You’re correct in time being a factor. Other duties called me to action and I have yet to return to add the final details. I haven’t decided on exactly what I want to do.
I’m leaning toward leather, but I am open to other thoughts at this time. I’d be interested to hear any ideas. Please post them here.
Thanks,
Glen
Glen.
I had a question on the front vise as pictured in the magazine: Why no jaw liners? I’m guessing that publication time pressures may have been to blame, or some other mundane explanation, but on the chance that you have ideas about using leather or some such or have some method of work where you like to make interchangeable sorts for different purposes, I was curious to hear.
Thanks.