Solving the practical problems for the use of a table is the first step to developing a successful design.

Just as chairs were easily categorized on a practical basis, tables can be classified as one of three types: eatin’, relaxin’ or workin’. Within each of these types there are some design parameters that fall in a narrow range, but other parameters that can vary almost infinitely.

The fixed parameters are those of height, followed by the width and depth needed for the task at hand. For dining tables the standard height is 29" to 30". Each diner needs some room, so the overall size of the table depends on the number of place settings and the size of the room. Shape and overall size can range from a small round table for one to a huge banquet table in a palace.

The illustrations give some examples of typical shapes and sizes and the number of seats that can be placed around the table. In some of the illustrations, there is a “normal” spacing for place settings along with a “crowded” setting. This is a realistic consideration when trying to determine the size of table needed.

Some references have tried to simplify this by making the number of possible place settings a function of the length of the perimeter of the table. This almost works for round tables, but fails miserably when employed for rectangular tables. When you turn a corner, you need to consider that parts of the available area are width for one diner and depth for the one around the corner.

Also keep in mind the distance across the table. A 30"-wide table will provide a more intimate experience for people across from each other, but there may not be room to place serving dishes and available space at the corners will be limited if you squeeze in an extra seat. A 48"-wide table will give plenty of room for the turkey platter at Thanksgiving but it can be too far to reach across.

Many tables expand for special occasions, so consider both versions in your planning. 18" of expansion is about the minimum for an additional place at each side of the table, but this can be affected by the shape of the top and the location of the leaves in the center.

The location of the legs can also affect the number of available places, as well as the placement of trestles, rails and other structural elements. There may be room on top of the table for two place settings, but will there be enough room below for two pairs of human legs? A trestle base close to the end may make a dramatic visual statement but can prevent the end from being used for seating.

And last but not least the size and shape of the room enters into the equation. It’s great to have a dining table that can expand to accommodate everyone for a holiday dinner, but if it expands so far that it blocks the door to the kitchen it won’t be much of a benefit.

The shapes of most tabletops start as squares or circles, pushed or pulled to a number of alternatives. Clipping the corners of a rectangular top will allow more table width in a narrower room and the space removed at the corner won’t be missed. This makes for a more interesting look, and not having a sharp corner makes the table more user-friendly for inattentive people in a crowded room.

Also consider some non-traditional shapes. These can be a practical as well as an esthetic improvement in many cases, but this departure must be balanced to the overall shape of the room. A shape that works in one environment can easily be awkward and non-functional in another.

Occasional tables also have relatively standard sizes, but there is a much wider range within these standards. Coffee or cocktail tables are usually within an inch or so of standard seat heights, 16"-18", but higher or lower tops will also work. It’s a balancing act between function and appearance.

End tables are usually between 24" and 30" in height. Often these are matched in height to nearby seating, with the top of the table slightly higher than the arm of an adjacent chair or sofa. Too low and it becomes awkward to reach around the arm of the chair to place or retrieve something from the tabletop. Too high and it begins to feel like you’re putting something in the overhead bin on an airliner.

Tables for hallways or for behind sofas are close to the 30" standard height of dining tables, but this can vary to be nearer to the height of the back of a sofa or to accommodate some object on the tabletop.

Desk surfaces are also close to dining table height, but an inch or two lower is often helpful. This encourages and makes sitting upright more comfortable so you can pay attention and get something done. Surfaces for keyboards are lower — 25" to 26" is a reasonable working height.

For work surfaces designed for use in a standing position, start with the standard kitchen counter height of 36" and adjust up or down as needed. This type of surface is best matched to both the task to be performed and the individual user.

In addition to the height of the tabletop above the floor, it is also vital to consider the space immediately below the top. The height of an apron shouldn’t intrude into the knee space available when seated.

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Bob Lang is senior editor for Popular Woodworking