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> <channel><title>Comments on: Delta Unisaw Rebuild Part III</title> <atom:link href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/delta-unisaw-rebuild-part-iii/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/delta-unisaw-rebuild-part-iii</link> <description>Woodworking advice, woodworking plans, woodworking projects and woodworking blogs</description> <lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 12:12:04 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.1</generator> <item><title>By: Steve Shanesy</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/delta-unisaw-rebuild-part-iii/comment-page-1#comment-10005</link> <dc:creator>Steve Shanesy</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:07:53 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Delta+Unisaw+Rebuild+Part+III.aspx#comment-10005</guid> <description><![CDATA[Hi, Neil and Alan,I&#039;d have to agree, Neil, that candy apple red metal flake always improves the look of MDF! Years ago, actually did some furniture pieces with automotive finishes. As you might guess, that was in the &#039;80&#039;s.And Alan, yes I will treat the cast iron with rust inhibitor and your point is right on. As for the dust port/collection-- I know that a 5&quot; port is more ideally suited IF you have a dust collection system to pull enough air. I wonder how many people have a shop set up where they are actually using 5&quot; hose or pipe to collect? My guess is most people reduce the size to 4&quot; right off the machine. Makes me wonder what the difference in CFM and static pressure is required with a 5&quot; vs. 4&quot;. I&#039;&#039;ve also talked with some of the editors about sloping the bottom to channel the dust toward the port. The issue with this machine is the front door clean out. The bottom of the door is only 2&quot; above the floor of saw and that wouldn&#039;t provide much slope. I&#039;m thinking through a solution that might suspend the front edge higher to gain adequate slope but would be easily lowered when access was needed to the interior of the saw-- you know, when you drop the arbor nut!Steve]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, Neil and Alan,</p><p>I&#8217;d have to agree, Neil, that candy apple red metal flake always improves the look of MDF! Years ago, actually did some furniture pieces with automotive finishes. As you might guess, that was in the &#8217;80&#8242;s.</p><p>And Alan, yes I will treat the cast iron with rust inhibitor and your point is right on. As for the dust port/collection&#8211; I know that a 5&quot; port is more ideally suited IF you have a dust collection system to pull enough air. I wonder how many people have a shop set up where they are actually using 5&quot; hose or pipe to collect? My guess is most people reduce the size to 4&quot; right off the machine. Makes me wonder what the difference in CFM and static pressure is required with a 5&quot; vs. 4&quot;. I&#8221;ve also talked with some of the editors about sloping the bottom to channel the dust toward the port. The issue with this machine is the front door clean out. The bottom of the door is only 2&quot; above the floor of saw and that wouldn&#8217;t provide much slope. I&#8217;m thinking through a solution that might suspend the front edge higher to gain adequate slope but would be easily lowered when access was needed to the interior of the saw&#8211; you know, when you drop the arbor nut!</p><p>Steve</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Alan Schaffter</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/delta-unisaw-rebuild-part-iii/comment-page-1#comment-10004</link> <dc:creator>Alan Schaffter</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 18:13:19 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Delta+Unisaw+Rebuild+Part+III.aspx#comment-10004</guid> <description><![CDATA[I just completed the restoration of an old Max spindle sander using many of the same techniques.  I might have missed it, but one thing I would recommend, is to protect the cast iron wings and top with wax, Boeshield T-9, or other rust inhibiting product immediately or you will be sanding again soon.  Cleaning off the dirt and oils exposes those surfaces to  immediate oxidation (rusting).The second comment- that appears to be only a 4&quot; DC port Steve is adding.  A 6&quot; port would be much better.  Additionally, those old saws did not have a sloped floor so the DC port will only be partially effective with many chips still piling on the floor under the cabinet.  A sloped plywood or better, sheet metal floor that directs the dust and chips towards the DC port is highly recommended.  Start with a cardboard template to get the right size, then mount the shelf with brackets or other method and seal its perimeter.]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just completed the restoration of an old Max spindle sander using many of the same techniques.  I might have missed it, but one thing I would recommend, is to protect the cast iron wings and top with wax, Boeshield T-9, or other rust inhibiting product immediately or you will be sanding again soon.  Cleaning off the dirt and oils exposes those surfaces to  immediate oxidation (rusting).</p><p>The second comment- that appears to be only a 4&quot; DC port Steve is adding.  A 6&quot; port would be much better.  Additionally, those old saws did not have a sloped floor so the DC port will only be partially effective with many chips still piling on the floor under the cabinet.  A sloped plywood or better, sheet metal floor that directs the dust and chips towards the DC port is highly recommended.  Start with a cardboard template to get the right size, then mount the shelf with brackets or other method and seal its perimeter.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Neil</title><link>http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/delta-unisaw-rebuild-part-iii/comment-page-1#comment-10003</link> <dc:creator>Neil</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 09 Dec 2009 13:41:48 +0000</pubDate> <guid
isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Delta+Unisaw+Rebuild+Part+III.aspx#comment-10003</guid> <description><![CDATA[Hi Steve: Been enjoying this series.Like how you bring up where an approach you&#039;re using can be applied to furniture. IE: cutting lacquer with the wet/dry 400/600, and you&#039;re showing your age :^) /experience going to the automotive store for color. MDF looks so much better when metal flake is applied. :^)Looking forward to the tune-up!]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Steve: Been enjoying this series.</p><p>Like how you bring up where an approach you&#8217;re using can be applied to furniture. IE: cutting lacquer with the wet/dry 400/600, and you&#8217;re showing your age :^) /experience going to the automotive store for color. MDF looks so much better when metal flake is applied. :^)</p><p>Looking forward to the tune-up!</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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